The calipers have NOT been replaced since we bought it.
The pads showed relatively even wear thickness to my recollection… it’s been over a year since the last replacement.
I’ll check Carmax, but it was purchased in Southern CA.
THANK YOU!
I don’t expect Honda, or any other manufacturer, to issue a TSB based on one person’s experience. I have no way of knowing whether the problem was caused by Honda, my driving habits, or some other factor.
Oregon’s rural interstate speed limit is 65 mph with trucks and vehicles towing trailers limited to 55 mph. Urban interstates are 55 or 60 mph. The highest exit speed I have seen posted is 50 mph. I wonder how long the yellow light is on that 75 mph traffic signal?
Not knowing what this left turn with light actually looks like here is what I would do if tailgating and having to stop quickly in a short space. I would stay in the right lane and turn right, find a safe place to turn around and the go through the intersection on a green light. The little cost of time and fuel means nothing compared to the possible accident.
I’m not sure that the OP’s definition of a hard stop is the same as mine. There are a number of off ramps here that fit the description of @hgkk1218’s situation and some with 70 mph speed limits that are generally ignored and I don’t consider any of them a hard stop.
The highway department has guidelines for off ramps and as far as I know, none would involve a hard stop. In my opinion, OEM pads and an occasional hard stop, almost up to skidding or anti-lock kicking in, would solve their problem.
For what it’s worth… my wife drives a 2012 Odyssey. Has about 70K miles; we bought it used 2 years ago with maybe 40K miles.
Just recently, on a trip, I noticed the steering wheel shaking up and down when braking at highways speeds. I knew it was the front rotors. We got them replaced (just the rotors; I replaced the brake pads a few months ago myself) for around $250. Problem solved. It brakes like a brand new van now.
Good luck to you.
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I hate to bash the profession, but it’s quite possible that all 3 of those places are assuming and all 3 are wrong.
The brake shudder complaint generally leads to a warped rotors diagnosis even before the car is test driven or put on the rack.
As a mechanic and after hearing a story of repeated warped rotors, what I would do is actually drag out a micrometer and dial indicator and measure a few things; meaning rotor runout and parallelism.
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