db4690 is right. There is absolutely no comparison between any app or generic code reader and a professional level scan tool. Think the difference between an Etch-a-Sketch and a plasma screen monitor. A code reader or smart phone app is useless in a shop setting.
Having said that, those of us professionals have to correctly diagnose and verify whatever fault we’re chasing quickly and accurately the first time, within half an hour of getting to the car. We need top level scan tools with complete and fast data streaming and intrusive bi-directional controls to do this. For the DIY guy puttering in his driveway on a Sunday, the code readers provide an easy and economical way to get started. You pull some codes, look at the woefully slow data rates, and make an educated guess as to the cause. You drive to the store, buy a part or two and install it, and wait and see if the problem is fixed. All you’re out is the cost of the parts, and it’s probably fun for you and your buddies to futz around the car for a while. As often as not, you’ll get the car fixed and be on your way.
And in some cases the entire parts store stock is depleted without a resolution…
Yes, very true. But in some cases a fault code that states “slow response, O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1” or “MAP voltage out or range” is easily solved by replacing a sensor. So it’s a gamble, one that many people are willing to take.
What bugs me is when the smartphone app doesn’t resolve it, and the free code scan by the local lube shop doesn’t get to the bottom of it, that people come to a well-equipped and experienced shop and balk at paying the $100 for a proper diagnosis. I often have to remind them that if it were a quick and simple fix, the other guys surely would have found it.
For us backyard mechanics the app is good. Gives us a general idea to where to start looking. Usually we have a lot of time to tinker with this, google the codes and common issues with the make/model and so on. At the end of the day, if I change an O2 sensor and the CEL came back, I can still take it to the shop and see if they can figure it.
The comparison between professional-level scanners and DIY home user scanners is, honestly, silly. You might as well scoff at the guy in a Corvette because it’s slower than an F1 car.
Of course the pro scanner is better. It’s also orders of magnitude more expensive. I’ll keep puttering along on my $30 home scanning setup and spend the thousands I save on pursuits more practical for a guy who doesn’t wrench on cars for a living.
I don’t kn ow any professional mechanic that doesn’t have a scanner. It’s a needed and valuable tool. Engine light comes on…you need a place to start.
Your high end scan tool is still a scanner with other diagnostic capabilities.
Exactly my point. If a shop were to use a smartphone app or a generic code reader on a car, the next step in the shop would be to plug in the scanner. No code reader or app needed in the first place. Why start with something that won’t let you get to the finish in the first place?
True…but there are many times the scanner isn’t going to tell you much more then the code reader will tell. Not all codes can be diagnosed with a scanner.
As for the ones that connect to your laptop or smartphone…with the right software they are very close to your expensive scanning tool. In fact that basically is exactly what your professional scanner is. It’s just bundled together for you and it’s dedicated to be just a scanner. But the only people who can really take advantage of it are professionals or good backyard mechanics who do projects on the side.
True…but there are many times the scanner isn’t going to tell you much more then the code reader will tell.
I can’t think of any time I’ve ever seen that. And I use a scan tool just about every day.
Scan tools are used for so much more than engine lights and emissions failures and poor engine performance. A/C not blowing cold? Scan tool gets hooked up before the gauges do. Power door locks not working? Scan tool. Battery light on? Scan tool. Replace rear brake pads on an Audi? Scan tool needed.
Shops (good ones) don’t have just one scan tool. Many scan tools are laptops, or at least are software and hardware that needs to get loaded onto a partitioned laptop. True, not all codes are diagnosed with only a scanner, but the vast majority these days are. In fact, a good driveability tech will have the problem figured out on the initial test drive before even opening the hood.
“Yes, and you’ll have to give up your love of the rotary dial .”
Actually, I just bought a really good sixties rotary phone last year. I live in the mountains and during electrical storms, we get some really high voltage sympathetic pulses on the phone line.
I found a Phillips surge protector at Wal-mart which protects your electronics with no limit. For the 115v it opens a relay which can be reset with the push of a button.
But, for the phone it blows a miniature fuse on a circuit board, so I have to open it up and re-solder the little fuse.
So, now when it even hints at an electrical storm, I disconnect the phone wires. Which means i have no phone.
The old dial phones, I hope, are not harmed easily by a pulse on the phone line. Back in those days we used to hear the jingle of the phone when there was a big pulse on the line.
So, I found a source for old phones in new condition. When I unplug the electonics, I plug in that phone.
And, I can call with it. Telmex accepts rotary dial. I can even call the USA as long as I don’t use electronic calling services with codes.
Sorry to go off-topic here. Nothing to do with cars, but my car is parked next to the telephone entry place.
I’m really stretching, but those old phones used point contacts to do the signaling, which brings to mind old car ignition systems.
BTW, my '75 Civic had points and a manual choke.
A friend lost the very expensive transmission controller in his C-Max hybrid when the light pole a few spaces down from where he was parked was struck by lightning. Fortunately the vehicle was under warranty. I had lightning strike close enough to my car while driving on the highway that it fried the FM section on my car radio (the tape deck still worked) I don’t remember hearing about an old rotary dial phone ever being killed by lightning, though unfortunately the same can’t be said for some poor soul that was on the phone. (the phone itself is in the museum of lightning struck objects–not kidding)
Back to the original subject, I use the ELM Bluetooth transceiver with my Android phone and it works well. I’m not familiar with what is available on Apple’s ecosystem, but there are a lot of Android apps of varying quality and capability, both free and paid. One of the better is “Torque” IMHO. I think that one is available on Apple as well. It has OBDII code-reading and clearing ability, as well as lets you peer into the data stream and create your own custom dashboard from lots of available items to add.
I was talking to a highschool girl last year whose car got struck by lightning while she was in it. Scared the heck out of her and fried half of her electrical system. It was an older car with a mast antenna, and that’s where the lightning hit. The antenna was bent into this bizarre melty sculputure and the paint was burned for about 6 inches around it. Underneath the car was a little hole in the middle with scorch marks around it. We figured the lightning exited there.
Cars are partial Faraday cages, but I suspect that protection was put to a serious test with that hit.
