George:
I don’t know what your carburetor repair skills are, or even more important what your carb diagnostic skills are when something is wrong, but given all the times you’ve been in-and-out of the carb, my vote would be to have your steps double checked.
Back when I worked in a dealership during the days when carbs were rebuilt rather than replaced, there were always mechanics who had higher rates of faulty carb repairs than others.
When I read all the work you’ve done on the carb, it begs the natural question: “Was it all performed correctly?”
You are way overthinking this, it is not NASA, rocket science or brain surgery, it is simple car stuff that doesn’t cost $$$$$$$$$$… But yes, in the case you described, everyone should be on the same page… lol…
But how many different types of pumps does your (George) carb have?? Umm One, so as long as the name is close, move on with your life… But yes, in some, not all cases using the correct terminology is very important…
NASA technicians: hand me that whatchamacallit so I can tighten the thingy next to the doodad. OK, but be careful you don’t knock the widget off its thingamabob…
I’m not an expert but the factory manuals I’ve had seem to use the proper part names and terminology in them, like they were written by engineers. Using that same terminology at the parts counter though my yield a look of confusion. I’ve seen a whole page or more of definitions of noises such as the difference between a chuggle and a miss. But use the refined terminology with a mechanic and they may have no idea what you are talking about. Language is tricky and best to be able to speak both professional and slang.
When my daughter was doing her undergrad work at MIT, she introduced me to a 15yo student/friend hers. This 15yo was finishing up his BS in Mechanical Engineering. He actually designed and built a working carb for a small-block Chevy as one of his projects.
Evaporated? Where’s it going the bowl is a closed compartment for the most part besides some tiny tiny holes and jets. Did you check the oil? Could the cool down cause a siphon effect making it go somewhere?
It’s possible the gasoline fumes from the fuel bowl are getting sucked into the evap system I suppose. Gasoline is volatile & won’t stay in the fuel bowl indefinitely of course. I’m not sure how long the fuel bowl level should remain at the float-set height when the engine is not started for a week or more.
