Car Wax: Whats your favorite? and does it really work?

…ya, I knew this was coming.

Blacks. Exponential time, cost, babysitting… if ya want 'em looking perfect or close to it.

If one is aware of this from the start… then, hands down, one of the most dramatic vehicles colors out there. If not, and he/she thinks they can keep their car “perfect” for the same cost as the guy with the light color or even mid-dark tone vehicle, then heaven help the person.

Having emphasized that point to start, if one is “realistic” or practical about their black/dark vehicle, particularly if it is their “daily driver”, then it can be satisfying to own with good basic care & maintenance. An example might be two similar year older vehicles both due or needing a wax job, one white and one black/dark vehicle. From any viewing distance greater than maybe 20 feet away or more, the black/dark vehicle will be dramatically changed with only a good hand wax whereas the white vehicle I could even heavily machine polish and wax, and it’ll look better but won’t jump out at you as an overwhelming change. The “pain in the ass” difference comes into play when you want/need it look perfect at very close distances, because blacks “talk back to you” with any minute condition that exists on the paint (scratches, overspray, fallout, water spots, blah, blah).

Don’t know what your particular ride is, or what particular profile it is, wether it’s your hermetically-sealed once a month prize possession or the reliable family Accord?

Either way, frequency is a recommendation, meaning the more the merrier, of whatever your favorite finishing product might be. Most “pure” finishing products (meaning no cleaners in it, no combo products) with few exceptions, can be layered upon themselves just about as many times as you wish. It is simpler to stick with the same product though, for building up layers. Polymers can be used to build up exceptionally well. Carnaubas also build up very deep and very nicely. A carnauba can actually be applied/layered onto a polymer/sealant below it, but you cannot apply a polymer/sealant onto a carnauba base underneath.

Any black vehicle should simply go into the hands of an experienced/quality polishing pro once a year, regardless of the calibre of vehicle. The technician may not need to use any aggressive product on the vehicle at all, he may simply need to glaze/finesse the finish to remove a buildup of contaminants on the surface and diminish “hairline” scratches that are inevitable from a years worth of car washing. Once this is done, a lazy owner can ignore their vehicle for a year (ouch) and it’ll still look OK, or an owner can “throw” on an easy coat of polymer/sealant/wax a couple times themselves throughout the balance of the year, and the vehicle will remain significantly more stunning!

Taking your vehicle to a quality/experienced polishing individual cannot be emphasized enough with black vehicles. I cannot recount how many black vehicles have been eventually referred to me or sub’d out from a body shop to me to correct a swirled up butcher-job that some poor owner had done by a shop that was staffed with “kids” that are hired/fired or quit every few months, and that had no idea of the critical nuances required to polish blacks (let alone even basic product/process knowledge). That’s the original cost for the bad job plus the cost to have me “make it right”, ouch (my services are not cheap).

OK then, where are the good ones? Well, like good/bad mechanics etc., you have ta check around. You don’t have to do a lot of “legwork” but just start putting the word out and inquiring casually at your body shop or a high-end specialty body shop, or the service department at a high-line brand like BMW/Jag/Merc/Lambo etc. (not at a service dept. for Honda/Toyota/GM - its not the cars but the detail shops they send to that are in question). Ask the guy who’s got the black Porsche/BMW/Merc’ that is locking his doors and heading into the mall. Local classic car clubs, exotic clubs, “tuner” clubs are all excellent places to shoot an email to for a reference. Another smart choice would be to contact, in person via telephone, the detailing supply companies in your local phone book (talk to the actual reps that are out on the road, they go to every single shop in town and know exactly who the “hacks” are and who the “worth their weight in gold” guys are).

One final suggestion, for those with blacks who wish more assurance, would be to go to the shop/person that you feel is qualified and discuss cost, ask why (“ummm” is not a good response), see if it sounds like he knows what he’s talking about. While you’re there, get him to do a sample section or do a whole fender to examine the potential (preferably a side door or fender section as it will be more revealing when the light hits it). If the shop lights are bright enough, you can probably make your decision, if not, tell him you want to confirm it in the sunlight and will come back (most reputable/capable guys wont have any problem with this, he knows you are serious). Confirm the cost to do the whole vehicle to the same standard and if he needs to adjust his charge, consider it. You don’t need to let yourself get milked, but now is not the time for cheap (MacDonalds is around the corner or you should change vehicle colors). This will also tend to ensure two things: 1 - you’re serious, 2 - he won’t feel he has to cut corners to produce your results.

Once you’ve found a good polishing expert, and received a great job as proof, you can inquire about a maintenance package of two or three follow up hand coats of product, if you wish. Even if he doesn’t normally offer this, he’ll be delighted to know you truly want to come back, and you can strike a deal or just have him right down an informal quote for what you want later with or without an expiry date.

Tally ho!

Cob Webs In My Brain . . . Correct Me If This Is Incorrect . . .

I’m one of the NuFinish users and I was managing a body shop at a VW dealer when Bugs were crawling all over and Rabbits were just emerging from VW’s burrows (about 75). I owned a Super Beetle and drove Rabbit and other assorted VW company cars.

One brand new company car I had was, I believe, a beautiful 78 Champagne Edition Rabbit. One of its features was the “new” 2-stage metallic paint job. Soon these finishes became more and more common. I recall going round and round (it got ugly) with insurance adjusters over the additional labor (x 1.5, I think) and added materials (base, color, clear-coat) on estimates for this “new” finish (kind of sounds like Nufinsh, eh?). They would always balk until it became the industry standard.

I remember polishing / waxing my Beetles at home with Blue Coral. I would polish the single-stage dull paint with the polish and watch the rag turn the same color as the car while removing oxidized paint and then seal the shine with the wax. That was the equivalent of rubbing your car with a candle and then trying to polish it off. I hated it. I’d also use Turtle wax because it was easier.

Back to the two-stage paint. That’s about when Nufinish was new, when the 2-stage finish was new. Now when one polished and waxed, just the top clear-coat was getting done and the color was underneathe, protected by the clear-coat. That tough top clear-coat is like a 2 part epoxy. No more colored rags. I used the same Turtle Wax for two-stage cars as I did for single-stage cars for a while until I discovered and switched to NuFinish, quite a long while ago.

Now life is easier than in the single-stage Blue Coral days. It’s white cars, Nufinish, and an electric orbital waxer for me. I do have other things to do. I have several lists to prove it.

CSA

When I was in high school back in the late 1950’s, my Dad would give me $10 and tell me to go purchase the auto wax, and I could keep the change if I wax I bought included the “installed” price. Of course, I was the one that did the “installing” of the wax. I tried different waxes back then–Turtle wax, Johnson’s Car Plate as recommended by Fibber McGee on the “Fibber McGee and Molly Show”(the radio show was sponsored by Johnson’s Wax), Simonize, and Collonite Fleet Wax. I really didn’t see much diffeence back then among the brands, although the Collonite may have had a slight edge in durability. In recent times, I’ve been satisfied to purchase whatever is on sale.

I’m very particular with my mostly daily driver/hobby sports car. I did side by side comparison test of Zaino products vs well known, expensive carnuba based wax. Hands down, Zaino reflected a noticeably cleaner, more mirror like finish. Zaino “wax” plus occassional use of Zaino gloss enhancer gives me a knock out, wet look finish. I was told that guys who do Corvette show cars get sponsored by well known high end carnuba wax brands but, secretly, they actually use Zaino.

The dish washing soap pH largely determines what it will do to carnuba based wax. The highly alkaline dishwashing soaps (e.g. Dawn has pH of 9) will really rip off carnuba wax. Great way to fully strip the wax, if that is what you want to do! Rather than get a pH meter to figure out which dish detergent to use…stick with car wash detergent.

Why do I get that “spam” feeling from reading this post? I feel unclean. Am I the only one?

I am glad you found a product you like, but you went just a little overboard with the rumor about the guys at the Corvette show. It sounds a little too much like an infomercial.

Most guys I know who care enough to keep their cars well detailed, have spent a lifetime experimenting with whatever was available on the market. I certainly have. Any commercial wax or sealant product is apt to give protection from the elements, it’s only a question of price, ease of application and removal, staining of trim/rubber, durability, and gloss/sheen. So do a little experimentation of your own and find a product that you like to work with, are happy with the results, and can afford. After 45 years of obsessive car detailing, my current favorites are P21S carnauba wax (for a natural wax) and Zaino (for a synthetic sealant). The important thing is to regularly keep a good coat of whatever coating you choose on your car.

Fibber McGee on the “Fibber McGee and Molly Show”(the radio show was sponsored by Johnson’s Wax

Read the ingredients on Johnson’s paste wax…It’s a CARNUBA wax.

Johnson’s CarPlate wax was in liquid form. Johson also sold cleaner that one was to use before waxing the car with CarPlate called CarNu. CarNu was also in liquid form. I haven’t seen either Johnson’s CarPlate or Johnson’s CarNu wax on the shelves since 1960. I don’t think as a high school student in those days that I paid much attention to the ingredients.

I wasn’t referring to their Car wax…just their floor wax called…“Johnson Paste Wax.” It was basically a Carnuba wax.