Please post a picture of the spark plug with the oil on it
I understand you put in aftermarket parts . . . What brand?
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You still have yet to answer multiple questions that I and others have already asked, now the dealer seems to have confirmed our suspensions with using non OEM spark plugs and non OEM or high quality ignition coils… As a rule of thumb for BEST results, always put OEM spark plugs, you can pull the factory installed spark plug and get the part number off it, or do a little research, but stay away from Auto Zone, the COP’s (ignition coils) need to be OEM or OEM quality also…
As @db4690 said, post a pic of the plug you replaced, 1) so we can see the “oil” on it, and 2) so we can see the make of the plug and the part number (may take a couple pics)…
If you have oil on the spark plugs, then it is probably due to the spark plug tube seals leaking, oil in the plug tubes and swell the COP boots causing the COP to short out against the tube and burning it out… Go back and reread, do a little research and please answer some of our questions from before…
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The spark plug that I replaced today says DENSO ZXU2OHCR8 IRIDIUM (all caps, as I typed it). This was installed by my mechanic, not the dealership. I’ve attached various views of it.
I didn’t buy spark plug and coil, my mechanic did. I trust my mechanic, so I just assume that he’s using quality parts, but I don’t know anything for certain.
I don’t know what my mechanic has done, besides the parts that he replaced. Every time he replaces something, the problem has been (temporarily?) fixed. Since he knows much more than I do, I assume that he’s doing the right thing.
I think when the fuel injectors were changed, all 4 plugs and coils were changed, but at this point I can’t remember. I never asked my mechanic to do a compression test. I think the last time he changed a plug and coil, that he may have suggested this as a next step if this the problem occurred again.
There is probably a disconnect in the definition of a “thorough diagnosis”. For $240, what did you expect them to do?
An alternative to what they suggested would be to install an OEM coil and plug on the cylinder in question. This limits the expense to you and if it is successful, you could consider changing all of them.
To the dealership service credit, they are trying to limit the potential for multiple visits which most customers will grouse about afterward. Part of the labor cost is getting to the area for repairs. If they have to do it more than once, it increases the time and therefore cost to the customer.
The pictures are kind of grainy, but I zoomed in . . .
Looks like a lot of engine oil on the threads
leaking park plug tube seals, as @davesmopar suggested
In that case, you’ll need to do the spark plug tube seals . . . which come in the valve cover gasket kit . . . along with new coils and plugs. Only OEM stuff. If you’re going to do it, do it right
And another thing . . . make sure you can actually torque all the plugs to factory specs. If you can’t, then the female threads are worn out, cross-threaded, etc. and you may need heli-coils or time-serts
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OK, thanks, now we are getting somewhere, from what I am finding, the DENSO ZXU20HCR8 (Denso 3479) spark plug in your picture fits the Hyundai Accent and Veloster, the preset plug gap is 0.031"… The correct OEM spark plug is NGK SILKR7E9 (NGK 95229) and preset plug gap is 0.035"… Getting conflicting info about the correct plug gap, seeing 0.035" or 0.043"/0.044"…
I am only seeing O’Reilly auto parts and Napa auto parts carrying or the dealer carrying the spark plugs $20 each and up… AutoZone and Advance Auto are NOT showing to sell the NGK 95229…
eBay, Amazon and even heard of Rockauto having counterfeit NGK spark plugs, so stay away from places like that, stick with O’Reilly or Napa, or best is the dealer for the plugs and coils…
Now, in the pictures of the spark plug(s) the non threaded part looks very clean, did you wipe it down or clean it???