Car died while running; Hmm

I have a 1999 Toyota Camry LE 2.2l with 204k miles. I had an oil change performed at 203k, and went without problems for ~750mi, then one particularly cold night after work, I started the car normally and drove 0.5mi down the road when the engine stopped, followed by a solid red oil pressure light turning on. I coasted in N to the side of the road immediately and called for a tow. Before they arrived, i was able to confirm that there is no major oil leakage visible, and the oil level was between the acceptable lines on the dipstick…Buuuut, the car will not start. The motor cranks, but it will not turn over. Where should I start looking if the engine isn’t total junk YET? ? Any input on diagnosing the problem would be appreciated.

Broken timing belt? Can’t see from my locale

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One check for broken timing belt is to take off the oil cap and look in there with a flashlight. You should see parts moving when someone cranks the engine. If not, broken timing belt or related component most likely.

The oil light is a red herring, your oil light will always come on if your engine stops running with the key on.

The engine cranks but will nor turn over- Mo, cranking and turning over are the same thing,

A broken timing belt will let the engine crank much faster than usual. If it is not the belt, you have to check if you are lacking spark or fuel.

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For those who guessed the broken timing belt, congratulations. After having a mechanic take a quick peek, it’s pretty clear that at least the belt is going to need to be replaced. Any thoughts on repl. the water pump ‘because it’s there’? With 205k on this car, a compromised power steering pump, and driving ~65mi/Day, the sucker can’t last much longer.

First checked the fuel pump; everything seemed OK. Then checked for spark which was OK. Checked the belt. NO.

The first question is whether it’s an interference engine or not. If so there may be bent valves. If not then year, water pump and related parts.

I did a quick check. The 1999 Toyota Camry 2.2L I4 is a non interference engine. Whew!

I would. By replacing the belt, you’ve done 90% of the work of pump replacement anyway, and if the pump should fail after the belt is replaced all that work will have to be done over again… and most of the cost of both jobs is labor. The pump assembly itself is only just over $100 (see attached link).

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I would also replace the cam, crank, and oil pump seals. They’re going to leak at some point if they aren’t already. Might as well swap 'em out while you’re in there.

Additionally, the idler pulleys should be replaced, as if one of them seizes it will take your brand new timing belt with it.

Heck, it was running pretty well for you before all this (which is normal wear anyway) so I’d say fix it. Do the whole job. It’ll cost you, what? $1,000? Can you do better with that much money? The car, not running, is worth very little because no one can tell if the rest is any good, except you. Maybe a mechanic would buy it for $1000, fix it and sell it for more, but otherwise it’s close to worthless. Fix it.

you were lucky. broken belt was clue that service was overdue.
my former car had a leaking wp that i was unaware of. i think the drip was very small. it dripped on belt and it finally spun so timing was off. motor stalled. and than i changed both belt and wp. it was a non interference motor.