2011 Honda Civic Sedan - 170k miles. About a month ago I go out to my car and it won’t start. Assuming the battery is dead I have a buddy help me jump it, which was unsuccessful for a very long time. Eventually someone came with one of those portable car battery jumpers and it worked. I got it home, parked it and left it overnight. Drove it somewhere a couple days later, parked and went somewhere. After about an hour it died again, and I couldn’t jump it with my buddy’s car. Let it sit for about 4 hours and then was able to jump it. Ended up replacing the battery and drove it around for a little bit, but then it happened again. At this point I can’t get it started as it’s clearly not the battery. When I open the door or stick the key in the ignition dashboard lights come on. If I crank to start all power is killed and it takes some time before dashboard lights will come back on. If I turn the key to turn the radio on, accessories, etc. they may come on, but that can kill the power too. If I hold it on that setting and then try to crank it kills power, but this time it takes even more time before the dashboard lights or tail lights work. Negative and positive cables seem secured pretty tight on the battery. Cannot figure out what it would be. I’d try to tap the starter, but it’s difficult on these Civics as it seems like you have to jack them up and I’m street parked in a city. I’m also not the best with battery/electrical issues.
The next time you get it started, check the voltage at the battery to see if it’s charging.
Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to get the car started for the past 2 weeks, and I don’t know if it will happen any time soon.
It seems that it is time to have it taken to a shop for a diagnostic service . Just make sure you tell the shop you must approve any repairs before they are done . It may need repaires that cost more than you are willing to spend . Also some cities will ticket or even confiscate vehicles that have not moved on public streets for a while.
Am I reading your posts correctly, that you rarely drive this vehicle? Maybe time to either junk it or sell as is.
I probably drive about once a week, and I need one occasionally for my job, so I’d prefer to keep if it’s an inexpensive fix (fingers crossed). I’m about at the point to tow it to a mechanic, but just wanted to see if it may be an obvious problem I’m missing.
Check closely for corrosion not just at the battery terminal ends, but look at the cables also, corrosion can grow under the insulation (it will swell some) and cause havoc… If you don’t know how to check for voltage drops using a DVOM then it is time to tow it to a shop and let the pros handle it…
Pretty tight is Not good enough, you should Not be able to twist/move the cable ends (terminals) by hand no matter what, if able to twist, tighten them up correctly or replace with new ones…
Thanks for the reply. Terminals are very tight, but looks like it could be corrosion at the cable right around the terminal. I’ll take a look when I get home from work, but if not that then yeah I’ll probably just take to my mechanic. Much appreciated on the help.
No. Sub amp wiring.
Both black cables look to be the same size, but one with the set screw raised up and cable not all the way in or insulation cut back to far may be loose…
Take it all apart and clean with hot water and baking soda, you can shake the cables in the cut of water/baking soda to clean them also, as well as the terminal end to get up in the holes…
Also clean the top of the battery with the same, rinse everything off with hot water when done, if you have any, use some dielectric on the battery terminal and cable end and exposed wires strands…
How do you “know” the battery is good? How old is the battery?
I also suspect the ignition switch, maybe a fuel issue, like the fuel pump?
Thanks, I’ll do that tonight.
The battery is new and shows 12.6 volts when I test with my multimeter.
In addition to the battery and alternator, tester usually points out that there is a voltage monitor attached to th3 battery that could be bad, not allowing full charge to th3 battery. I don’t remember what it is called and too lazy to look it up. They replaced one on my Acura once.
Edit: battery current sensor. Made me look. About $40.
Good catch by @davesmopar. Before you loosen the left cable see if the set screw that doesn’t appear to be full engaged can be tightened. This will tell you whether a lack of electrical contact is your problem. Then loosen that set screw and clean it per Dave’s instructions. Tightening it first takes a few seconds and won’t hurt anything.
You were right. I tightened that screw and then got my car to start. Started and drove it multiple times that night. Fingers crossed that’s the last of it. I can’t believe it was something so simple. Thanks a million to everyone with suggestions, this gave me so much relief and probably saved me so much money towing it to a mechanic. If you’re ever in Chicago let me know, you’ve got a beer on me.
Your car does have a sound system? What are wire for? If not, get rid of clamp.
The previous owner put a decent amount of mods on the car, i.e. aftermarket radio, backup camera that I generally try not to mess with. I’m honestly not entirely sure what the extra wire is for. The car has a sound system to the extent that any car does, or that’s what it seems like to me. This is my first car so in the future I’m definitely trying to stay away from cars with this many mods on it, specifically stuff with the battery/computer system.
Why??? Those are very nice and long lasting clamps, unlike the old junk that runs a strap over the wires… lol
I guess you these are junk also at only $172.00??
Owner does not know if wires are connected to anything. Maybe they won’t cause an issue by being grounded? Fingers crossed.