I have to jump a honda accord and all I have is 10 gauge 12 foot jumper cables which it says is for compact cars. Is it ok to use it on a honda accord? The other (full charge) car is a suburu legacy.
12 volt systems, why do you think the brand or size of car matters ?
Google the proper way to jump batteries or have someone who knows help you. I don’t jump batteries I just pay a wrecker service 25.00 to use a battery pack, it is safer.
You should be fine with 10 gage. Be careful in getting the polarity correct, Let the Subaru run for a few minutes to allow the Honda to take up a bit of the charge so that the Subaru/jumper cables are not providing 100% of the starting current instantaneously. Give it a try and see what happens. If the Honda battery is flat out dead you probably will not have any luck though. Check this out for jumping batteries, saves a lot of hassle, no risk to the donor car etc. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-portable-power-pack-with-jump-starter-62306.html
I wouldn’t use 10 gauge jumper cables.
Too thin for the possible current draw.
Here’s a chart that shows the proper wire gauge for the length of cable, and the max current rating for that size cable.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
Tester
I go months between starting my pickup. I’d detach the battery but I’d usually have to push it to start, which can have its exciting moments. (I do it alone.) I bought a battery pack for $40 from the Mart of Wal. I keep it plugged in on a bottom shelf. It always gives me the few extra 10s of seconds I need to start after a long hiatus entirely excitement-free. And it’s easier to use to help a neighbor start her/his automobile. I’ve had enough of this kind of excitement for this life.
If the Honda’s battery still has enough juice to slowly crank the engine, they should work after leaving them connected for 5-10 minutes. Other than that, I wouldn’t use anything that small/thin.
Amps.
As @Tester pointed out, OP’s jumper cables are good for 12 amps if the cables are 15 feet long. I’m guessing they’re shorter than that, so let’s be generous and say they’re golden all the way to 15 amps.
Meanwhile starting circuit fuses are in the triple digits.
The other fun thing about cheap, thin jumper cables is that they tend to come attached to cheap copper-clad steel clamps, and that copper flakes off after a few uses and then you’re trying to pass electricity through steel, which makes them suck even more.
The better cables (mine are 2 gauge, and I consider them “adequate” 
) usually have solid copper clamps which won’t give you those problems.
Not saying that it doesn’t say that on the package but I have never seen jumper cables marked " for compact cars only "
Given that “compact cars” can have some pretty large engines in them, my opinion is that that statement is just marketing bull. That is, totally meaningless.
10 gage 12 foot aluminum wire, x2, has a resistance of about 40 mΩ. So to allow for 2 volts drop across the cable, (you need 10 volts to run the starter), the max current you could draw is 51 amps. And there is no starter in the world that would operate on 51 amps.
If it’s copper instead of Al, that changes to 82 amps, still not enough to run a starter, as far as I know.
If you use them to charge the battery only, for 20 minutes or so I think that would be ok, But I am not sure,
“If you use them to charge the battery only,”
Then you are using your alternator to try to charge a dead battery, not good for the alternator, could cause overheating.
For emergency use, you can hook up the jumpers and leave them for about 10 minutes to charge the dead battery. If the doner is not revved above 2000 rpm, it wont hurt the doner alternator. Then you should be able to start the receiving vehicle. These jumpers can be used on much bigger engines, even V-8’s unless the receiving battery is incapable of taking a charge.
BUT, I have never seen commercially made 10ga cables more than 8 feet long.
If the batery is dead short fried there is no hope, but if the battery is not a dead short 20 minutes of charge to the battery without the demand of the starter seems ok in my bool for those cables.
Apparently according to another thread by this OP they have used the cables and jump started the car and moved on to another ( of many ) problem.