No matter which way I set the vent control knob, forced air seems to be coming only out of the dashboard vents (i.e., not from the under-dash toward my feet, nor from the defrost vents).
How do I diagnose whether the problem is in the control panel or in the air handler? Is the air handler sort-of easy to get to, like in this thread about a 2004 4Runner with the same problem?
(Sorry about the out-of-place citation about the 4Runner. When I am preparing a posting here, popup ads cover the bottom of the screen, and I can’t always see where things are going.)
You need to locate the mode door actuator on the HVAC system to see if it functions when changing modes on the control panel.
Tester
Thanks. I found this helpful-looking YouTube, and will use it as a guide for accessing the actuator.
That’s not the mode door actuator. It’s the blend door actuator.
The blend door controls whether cool air or hot air comes out the vents.
The mode door controls where the air comes out.
Tester
Ugh, yes. I was in the process of figuring that out. I’m not finding any YouTubes about that (but still searching, around other chores).
Is replacing the mode door complicated? Taking apart the dashboard?
Most times you can get at these actuators from under the dash. It may require removing a panel or the glove box to gain access.
Tester
Here’s an image of a 2012 Camry HVAC system. The air outlet servo motor appears to be above the drivers side air mix servo motor. You can look at your HVAC system and see if this is correct for a 2004 Camry. There is also an air inlet servo motor above and on the left of the blower. Nope this helps.
removed video help
Thanks for the help so far. I looked under the dashboard, driver’s side. I think I see the actuator up there, above the left blend door actuator, like in jtsanders pic for a 2012. Looks like the blend door actuator has to come out to access the mode control actuator.
Before I decide whether to try it or to give it to the mechanic, I’d like to check for blown fuse(s). The problem did occur suddenly, and one online posting I saw (but now cannot find) said that a blown fuse was the problem in his case.
Th Owner’s Manual shows Fuse #4 for A/C, and Fuses #33 and 56 for Heater. Does anybody have info about which other fuses might be involved?
(I might not have a chance to check fuses until Sunday. Please don’t feel unappreciated if I don’t respond right away.)
I have no info on your fuse #'s. I’ll just say, however, that fuses generally don’t blow for no reason. If a fuse blew, you can replace it and maybe get temporary “joy,” but it’s very likely to just blow again.
The ideal thing would be to have access to a code scanner capable of reading Toyota specific error codes. These would likely be body codes (Bxxxx), maybe chassis (Cxxxx). Generic OBD2 readers won’t pull those. But having them might save you some guesswork.
If it comes to replacing the mode actuator, it helps to have some very young person with the flexibility of Plasticman, and very small hands with nimble fingers…
Cigroller, you are absolutely right. Accessing the actuator looks so daunting that I want to try the simple thing first, even if it has near-zero probability. I don’t know where I could get use of a Toyota-capable code reader, and the job looks so difficult that I am getting cold feet :>) I can see myself after six freezing hours in the carport, with bloody scrapes all over my hands and a wrecked back and dirty footprints on the headliner, and having broken something else and not having fixed the problem.
LOL. Yeah. As in some part of your body. I had a bit of a “fight” with a mode actuator recently, and that was in an SUV, so probably a bit more room than in a Camry. My body paid. Not as young as I used to be.
If you’re computer saavy at all, you could visit some Toyota discussion boards and see about getting cheap access to various…uh…Asian knock-offs (sort of) of a Toyota “Techstream” scanner set up. It works best with a laptop using a 32 bit and older version of Windows than what is current (Win 7, I think). It’s cheap, and would be generally useful if you own a Toyota.
Note that I tried this once for my Prius and didn’t have any success, but many Toyota owners do make it work. I just couldn’t get my ancient 32bit Win system up and running again. I do own a Bluedriver scanner though, and it DOES pull Toyota codes from all modules. At $120, you can find cheaper ones, but they don’t come with the app that promises to read all codes. It’s nothing CLOSE to a Techstream, because it only reads codes. No bi-directional controls. But at least it pulls the codes.
Just to add to the fun…
NOTE 1: Estimates shown DO NOT include recover, evacuate and charge system. If necessary to open refrigerant system; refer to System Charge (Complete) for appropriate time. NOTE 2: Estimates listed are for factory and dealer instrument panel installed Integral type Air Conditioning Units only. Use necessary clock time for service of aftermarket units. DOES NOT include Air Conditioning System recover, evacuate and/or recharge. Includes: R&I Instrument Panel.
Labor flat rate pays 4.5 hours…
Hope you are not claustrophobic, and don’t mind having the blood rush to your head… lol
Most actuator motors can be replaced with the HVAC housing in the car, but they are difficult to index, that is the reason it is recommended to remove the assembly from the vehicle.
The servo motor wheel has three slots that engage with pins on three levers. These slots/levers must be properly aligned while installing the servo motor assembly.
This is all so helpfully discouraging. You guys are confirming things I am inferring about the difficulty of this job. Let’s see…
4.5 x (shop labor rate) + 2 x (retail price of part) =
${how-long-can-I-drive-with-cold-feet-and-no-defrost-function}
Given the difficulty of working in the car, I think I’d have a shop diagnose the problem and do it for you.
That, plus winter driving conditions, would cause me to take it to a mechanic.
Just a little update to keep the thread alive. I’ve been sick since Saturday (cold??, flu (nah!)???, whatever???). Monday (yesterday) I booked an appointment for Thursday at my mechanic. Today I checked the fuses; all OK. We’ll see what the mechanic finds.
Done. The mechanic diagnosed a “failing” mode door motor and replaced the Mode Door Actuator 87106-06140. $350 for the part from Toyota (and a day-and-a-half wait for it to arrive), but only 1.5 hours labor (even though I thought they had said something about removing the dash).
Regarding that 1.5 hours labor… I picked the car up after hours Saturday night. (I had given my Trusted Independent Mechanic my credit card number by telephone, and they locked the key and receipt in the car for me. After over 20 years with this shop, they trust me, too.) The driver’s seat was fully reclined and way back. I think they did the job in the parking lot, without removing the box. Pretty amazing. Any footprints on the headliner had been wiped clean 
.
That price for the part is in line with online retail prices:
(There might be some aftermarket ones cheaper. However, that link that Tester gave says it’s a Mode Door Actuator, but I think it’s actually the Blend Door motor. They link to a part they call Main Air Flap Actuator, which looks like the right part.
https://www.partsgeek.com/3fs4h28-toyota-camry-air-flap-actuator.html. With such confusion, I’m happy to pay the OEM price and not risk getting the wrong part and having to wait another few days to get it right.)
It seems to be working. I’m glad I paid somebody else to do it.
Thanks for the good advice.
