Something is still fuzzy here to me.
The 15 MM bolts are the yoke to knuckle bots. These do not have to be removed to change the pads only.
The 8 MM caliper bolts often have their heads hidden under a rubber cover and are the ones to be removed during a pads only replacement.
Are you servicing the rotors; resurface, replace, etc.?
What am I missing here?
I was hoping to replace the rotors, although they are not in bad shape. How can you replace just the pads by taking off the 8mm bolts and removing the caliper glides ?? I’ve never done that and would be curious how to retract the piston with the caliper sill on the rotor and remove the inner brake pad ???
i am assuming my mazda is similiar to your explorer. (ranger based) but the smaller bolts come out and you pry wiggle the caliper out of the U shaped (although it is upside down) caliper bracket. the bolts you are referring to sound like they will remove the u shaped bracket too. you do have to wiggle and convince the pads and caliper to slide off the groove on the outside of the rotor though. then you pull out the pads and retract the piston.
you dont have to remove the whole assembly unless you are going to replace the rotor too.
sorry i got the bracket confused in my mind.
to remove the rotor you must remove the upside down u shaped bracket. to only replace the pads you just have to remove the ccaliper itself.
sorry, confusing.
I’ll give that a try (removing only the caliper glide). The outside pad doesn’t look like any problem to remove, as it’s “under” this glide. It’s the inner one that I’m wondering if there’s any tricks to get out ??? As for retracting the piston, hopefully I can get my clamp in between the rotor and that caliper (that’s still on).
Thanks for the advice.
If you do manage to get these things off, you may consider using anti-seize on the threads when you install the new bolts. I use Permatex brand, and use it on most threaded fasteners and spark plugs. Especially the ones that give me trouble taking apart. It totally prevents galling (btween alum. ad steel/iron) and rust freeze, when moisture works into the threads and rusts them tight, and provides lubrication to ease installation and later removal.
Some believe that anti-seize could lead to bolts coming loose, but I’ve never had this happen to me.
All this rust in New England is enough to make a person crazy. I can’t wait to move back to the California central coast area where the only thing that corrodes at the same rate is the radiator. You can buy some real junkers wiith great bodies.
I’m assuming these are the dual piston front calipers that have been on the front of Explorer’s for the last several years.
After working on these calipers for several years, the best way to get them off is an impact gun with 6 point 15mm impact socket. They are VERY tight when installed, and have loctite patches also. Even an impact gun will struggle.
As for changing the rotor… you do indeed have to remove the entire brake assembly (including the torque absorbing anchor bracket) from the knuckle. Only by removing the anchor can you get the rotor off the knuckle.
For changing pads only… use a 6 point 13 mm socket on the trailing pin bolt. (As the rotor turns in the forward direction… the rotor enters the leading side and exits the trailing side.) Then simply swing the entire caliper off the anchor by pivoting around the the leading pin. With the caliper opened off the anchor you can slide the pads out as well as c-clamp the pistons back into the bores.
Thanks Ray. This sounds fairly straightforward. I’ve always taken off the entire caliper assembly because I didn’t know any other way to change the pads (even if I wasn’t replacing the rotors). As I said, the rotors are actually in good shape - no pits or grooves at all. I replaced these 2 1/2 years ago and that’s why I’m surpised I can’t remove these bolts (into the knuckle). The pads just hit that wear tab so the rotors certainly could be left on, I just normally service them when I’m chagning pads (but don’t have to). Thanks for the info.
Use a 6 (six) point socket,1/2 inch drive w/a breaker bar,w/your keys in the ignition to on,turn the wheels to the left so you can expose the caliper better,you will also be able to get a longer turn and leverage on the ratchet. It will work!
Just curious, you say quality sockets but what brand sockets are you using here?
I have a Craftsman’s mechanics set (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive with all the sockets, extensions, swivels, etc). I’ve never had any problems prior.
For next time use an air or electric impact wrench and a 6 point socket. Impact wrench will work with stubbornly tight or corroded bolts better than a breaker bar; will not round off the bolt head corners. If you have Allen or Torx bolts, the impact wrench can still be used.
I don’t know what you can do now if the heads are rounded and recessed? If not recessed, then use a Vise-Grip as was suggested. Think about welding some kind of extension to the heads and try again with the impact wrench.