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Broke oil pan & possible fatal engine damage

So I hit a curb and popped my oil pan/oil pump. Sucked but wasn’t too worried till I realized that the spot on the block where the oil pump slips into has a good sized piece chipped off it from the hit. It’s not threaded so that’s a good thing I suppose. Anyways, is there a way to fix this or am I screwed? Thought about just trying to reattach the piece that got chipped off. Googled around and sounds like JB weld is a possible solution but it seems to be a hit or miss thing. And most use it for just cracks, not reattaching a piece… and not to mention it just sounds a littleeee sketchy haha. The other thing I found is apparently some are able to weld a block. So maybe welding the loose piece back on is an option. I’m just hoping the engine isnt scrap from this accident. Any recommendations? Any thoughts on using JB weld or a JB weld type product vs finding a shop to weld it? Honestly lost at this point so any input is appreciated.

And all this is assuming that reattaching the piece is necessary. I’m just guessing that the pump won’t work properly with the piece chipped off.

Don’t know if this will work since I’m on my phone but here’s a photo of damage.

Hopefully all my rambling made sense haha. Thanks in advance! Oh and it’s a 12v vr6 engine from a Volkswagen.

I can’t see all that well but if that hole is where the oil pump sends the oil to the engine, you have a serious problem. JB Weld will not hold that pressure point well enough to trust it… If the engine block is aluminum (which I believe it is) it can be welded. The bigger problem is welding that spot while the engine is assembled and in the car. I can’t see well enough from the picture to even guess that it is possible. I’d call around and see if you can find a welder to at least look at it.

I think you may have to replace the engine. Sorry

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Accident damage. U were moving. Collision ins will cover it.


I’ve been using JB Weld for many decades to fix just about anything. It is capable of being used for structural repairs. It can be drilled and tapped. As an example, I once glued a connecting rod back together on a small 2 stroke from a snow blower (along with the block chunk that got broken out from it). It started out as a lark to prove a point but that thing ran for years afterward.

The key to its use here will be cleanliness. Removing all of the residual oil to ensure good adhesion. Since the pump slips up into the ID, there cannot be interference from any extra adhesive. You can make up for that by adding more outside to beef up the strength. I might even be inclined to pin it mechanically such that a retention mechanism is embedded into the adhesive.

All this assumes you have the piece that broke away. A determined and skilled person could fabricate a fix but it’s always easier if you have the original piece…

Why consider going this route?
Because I don’t think you’ll be successful at any kind of brazing or welding that back in place due to the wall thickness, location and other contributing factors. And I’d certainly be willing to attempt a repair before I tossed out an entire motor over something like this.

One last caveat, be sure you don’t have other, more serious collateral damage that would make this a complete waste of time…

Glued a rod back together? Are you serios? They only cost about $10. I had a block welded that a rod went through and it was less than $20 for the heliarc job.

I really can’t tell what it is from the picture but does the pump just slip in like a transmission filter? Are you sure its the pump or the pick-up tube? Oil pump in the oil pan? Guess I’m just not familiar with VW.

By your response i can tell you wouldn’t have believed it would work. Neither did my buddy and he’s out a case of beer because of it. As i said, it was a done as a lark. Would have tossed it out otherwise because it really wasn’t worth the effort. But look what was learned…besides, anybody can buy new parts :wink:

I concur w/ poster @TwinTurbo , the JB Weld method is worth a go for this problem. If you can rig up a way to press the JB Weld fast to the block for a few days, that will improve the odds. You know that glue job you have to do every once in while when the rear view mirror falls off? I use a length of 2 x 4 to wedge between the seat and the rear view mirror attachment gadget, then hang a hammer from the wood, to force the wood against the windshield. . I get much better success that way. Some risk of pressing the windshield out tho.

Still, I think if I had this problem first thing I’d do is consult a well recommended automotive machine shop. They may know of something simpler and better than JB Weld for this problem.

For mirrors, you take that attachment disk out from the mirror and just glue that disk on the windshield. Then when it sets, you attach the mirror to it. No need for a 2x4.

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I use the 2 x 4 to hold the attachment disk fast against the glass while the glue sets. I attach the mirror to the disc a few days later.

It’s been a long time and don’t precisely remember anymore but seems to me you just use some masking tape to hold it in place until the glue sets. Whatever works though.

I once used “water weld” to actually REPLACE a broken off part of an engine oil pan

And yes, it was a critical part, which would have gushed out oil like a geyser, had the repair not taken

I slobbered it on, then let it harden overnight. The next morning, I had to rework it slightly, then drill and tap it, because something actually screwed into it

But it worked . . . it’s been a few years, and that repair held up

The question I have would be how long did the engine run AFTER the curb strike and was the oil light on?

When I worked for VW I saw probably half a dozen VWs that had been run into curbs and damaged the oil pan and/or pickup tube.
Some noticed an oil light, shut the engine off, and had it towed in. Others did not. Damage varied all depending.

If that is the pickup tube, it looks like only the filter at the end of it has torn off. The pickup tube can be replaced easily; held in place by two bolts.