Was it those early Fiesta’s that had like two transmission shifters? Like one of the levers was for a high and low range?
Both, by far (engines gotten much better tolerances, oil waaaaay better). No way I would take any factory oil out to 10k miles. But thats just me and my old ways. With my new vehicles (and by that I mean only three, no big $$ here) I always changed the factory stuff out at 3500. If the manual says to leave it in for a specific period for break in then by all means. If it doesn’t, I would in no way let it stay in there for 10k. Heck, I wouldn’t let any oil stay in a car for 10k unless it is a full synthetic that is on long highway trips exclusively. Even then I’d still probably mentally never make it past 7500.
Go for Scheduled Services, Identify your car with noise, love your car as you do with your gf. that it. she will care you more what you are doing . and trust me it is my real experience, what i have felt, using KIA 2014 Model, and still taking me as a baby.
Cheers,
- Read the manual.
- Avoid hard acceleration, long periods of high power (long, steep hills), and high speeds for perhaps 1000mi (depends on the car). After the first 100mi.; or so, medium acceleration for perhaps 5 sec. at a time can be considered to help “set” the rings and avoid cylinder glazing, but normal driving around town might do the same.
- Avoid long periods of driving at constant rpm for the first 1000mi. or so, like on interstates with cruise control - this is to avoid the piston rings wearing a sharp ridge at the top of their travel, varying speed spreads the out the wear a bit so the rings won’t experience a hard jolt against the ridge when you finally do drive faster. Drive with your foot and vary speed every few minutes.
- If you really want to go the last mile (literally), early on consider going through a number of cycles of heating to operating temperature followed by shutting down to cool off (building miles with many short drives as opposed to an hours long trip right off), this is to relieve internal stresses that were locked into metal parts during manufacturing in a way that allows the distortions and associated tight clearances that form as the stresses relax to be gradually massaged and burnished into their final shapes under conditions of good lubrication, rather than being worn down with much friction against mating parts as they might be with long operating periods and/or heavy acceleration. Metallurgy has improved in the last few decades and doing this likely was more important many years ago. Modern engines usually outlast the rest of the car, but it’s one of the few things a new car owner who’s obsessive about long engine life can control (also taking it easy during warm-up and changing fluids on schedule).
Well after one week of owenership I have put 200 miles on it. Majority of that is city driving but I have gotten out on the freeway a few times and ran it around 60-65 for a bit. This weekend is the first long drive as I am heading over to cincy which is about a 225 mile RT drive with majority of it on the interstate. Still deciding weather to take it on my big trip to TN come Oct which at this rate I may have clost to a 1,000 miles on it.
You may not want to read this, but forewarned is forearmed, or something like that:
If I didn’t have 5 year/60,000 mile warrenty on it then it might bother me, but hey if it breaks down I’m covered till 2024 with Ford having to fix it.
Exactly what is a dual - Clutch transmission? Also I did see my transmission is a sealed one, I’m guessing more and more cars are going that way?
Here you go, straight from the supplement to the Owner’s Manual (quick start guide)-
The last paragraph relates to the layman’s (I’m being generous) term of “grit” in the oil…
Well I have about 200 down so another 800 or so to go. I will vary my speed on my trip over to cincy on saturday on the interstate, most driving around where I live is city streets where speeds vary alot.
It is interesting how companies feel especially in today’s world hide issues with car troubles. I mean in the long run I’m betting that by not addressing the transmission issues straight up will cost Ford more then being straight up about it from the start. I did some quick reading and it seems that the majority of the issues are centered around the 2011-2015 models, so I don’t know if they did something to models built after 2016 to address the issues or what, I will just have to wait and see with mine. I did some googling on the car prior to buying it and all reviews I came across were positive, I didn’t see anything with the transmission. Oh well I’m in the car now not much I can do but hope my problems are minimal.
With that precaution and not accelerating hard you should be fine.
Most people who know me say my driving type is more old senior citizen then it is a race car driver…
It’s an attempt to get the best of both what manual transmissions and automatic transmissions offer. The idea is to configure the car with a manual transmission (using a standard clutch design, conventional gears rather than planetary) and that also knows how to shift from gear to gear by itself, freeing the driver the burden of having to decide when to shift and pushing on the clutch pedal and move the gear lever to do it. I guess in order to accomplish all that the design team decided it best to use two clutches rather than just the one that would be found in a standard transmission. Conventional automatic transmissions have more than 2 clutches btw.
The laws of physics still apply: more complexity brings less reliability. A car with a conventional standard transmission configuration is usually the best bet if long term reliability is a key concern.
I guess that is something I will never grasp, A. If you have something that works then why try something else and B. When you see that your new idea isn’t working why not go back to what would work? I mean yes I understand money is an issue, but sometimes customer opinion can mean even more.
VOLVO_V70 I have a ?, have you ever had or heard of a brake prob on 2013 Ford Fiesta? Front driver side just keeps locking up. Had new brake pads, drums put on and 3 mo. later have this brake prob. put new caliber and two days later put a new hose on. Drove good all over town that day. Then next day did same thing again. Froze up with in 4 blocks from home. Unfroze as soon as it set for 20 min.
I have no idea why you are asking me this question . On the main page click in the ( New Topics ) button and start your own thread.
Generally both . Oil is a lot better than say the 60-70’s .
DCT gives slightly better fuel efficiency and acceleration in low speed city driving than a conventional auto.
But the downsides outweigh the up IMHO.
Hyundai got in trouble with them too.
To me it makes more sense for designers to focus on using the torque converter lockup clutch more at low speeds and low gears in the conventional auto.