Brake job, wheel wont turn easily help :)

Hi guys , i changed my front brakes rotors and pads i lubricanted the sliders and everything.
When i was done my wheel was hard to turn by hand is it normal or i have to do somthing thnks so much.

Do you mean the steering wheel was hard to turn? Or the road wheel that you had just changed the brakes on was hard to turn when you tried to turn it manually, with the car on jack-stands?

In my experience neither of those is normal after changing the brake pads and properly bleeding the brakes. But newer models may be different, esp if they have ABS.

On the jack , i was turning manually with my hand hard to turn idk why…


I’ve changed front pads on both my own older Corolla ,and on a VW Rabbit. Neither has ABS. After changing the pads I didn’t notice any difference in how hard the wheel was to turn compared w/before the change. Front wheels (on FWD cars) are harder to turn than wheel the rears of course, b/c you are turning parts of the transmission. Does your Corolla sport ABS braking? Is this just one of the two front wheels, or both? The transmission is in neutral, right? Both wheels are off the ground, right?

Your brake caliper may be seized and need replacing.

Hi , it has abs and my car was on park, on the jack,

Hi , yeah but the piston was okay there was no leak and piston moved easily.


The front wheels won’t turn if the transmission is in Park.

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Oh really shoot thanks man ur a god,
Been a while didnt change brake thats why thanks

In thinking about this further, if both wheels are off the ground it may be possible to manually rotate one of them even w/the transmission in P. If so, turning one of the wheels will cause the other to turn also, in the opposite direction. It depends on the configuration of the parking pawl.

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Have you ever done a brake job before?

yeah sure just wanted to be sure

If it’s seized wouldn’t you realize that when you tried to push the piston back in to accommodate the new pad thickness? And if it is stuck, now that you’ve pushed the piston in it should be stuck open.


A seized caliper can fool you. Pushing the piston in with a large C clamp, the easy method, may not give any real feedback. The piston can knock rust loose inside the caliper at the back of the bore that then follows the piston back out if you pump the brakes after installing new pads and rotors to set tbe pads and check for air. Now the piston won’t retract because the rust has wedged it in place.

That situation bit me a couple of times.

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@Kareem.wtf123_176820 Just curious: how often, if ever, did you flush brake fluid?
I advocate every 3 years.

Me? I am totally OCD about brake fluid. 3 years at least and sooner depending on what I am doing with the car or truck.

The problems I have had with this have been on vehicles I bought used. Many times you just can’t flush all the crud out. A seal kit and a good clean can fix some. Others are just too rotted out.

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In my experience it is normal. As long as you can rotate it by hand, you’re good. The new pads need to seat to the rotors.

Jack up 1 wheel, put it in neutral. Can you spin wheel?

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You? Oh no! I know a bit about you :grinning:
I hit reply on the OPs first post, but I didn’t do any quotation.
I thought it would show I was addressing @Kareem.wtf123_176820

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