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Blower Motor Running Without Key In Ignition!

I have access to Mitchells.

But if I were copy any of the information and post on line, e-mail, etc…, I violate the agreement I signed according to their copy right laws.

I then lose my subscription, and can be sued even though the information was provided without profit.

But what I do is, look the information up on Mitchells, and then go on the web and see if I can find that same information.

And if I do, I post it.

Tester

I understand. My access was educational, and I could under the license copy documents for educational use, so I never had to look into the limitations, but I had a feeling there were restrictions. You’re definitely wise to comply with the license limitations.

I’ve been unable to find it as an open document so far, but I’ll browse some more as time permits. Maybe I’ll get lucky.

If it stops blowing by turning off the switch, that’s probably true. But no way to know for sure without determining the cause first. There could be another circuit involved that is powered up when it shouldn’t be, which might run down your battery or worse. As mentioned above, this is difficult to debug & offer suggestions here unless/until you can post an electrical schematic of how that circuit is configured in your particular car. It varies make/model/year. If you can’t find it on the internet, next step would be a visit to your local public library. They may have a set of Mitchell’s hard copy, or Haynes, Chiltons repair manuals, or a subscription to an auto repair data base like AllData or similar. Some manufactures provide this data base access to the car owners for free or a small fee. Worse case you can purchase a temporary subscription to AllData specific to your make/model/year for a small fee and get it from there.

The info I see on the car shows that the blower has 4 separate speed positions and if that is the case here then there is no solid state controller and the motor is just tied to a relay and the resistor pack. The relay is apparently turned on with the ignition switch (the ACC contacts perhaps). So if this is true then there would seem to be a problem with the ignition switch being ON when it shouldn’t be. If other accessories like the radio work then that would seem to confirm the issue.

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