Whoa! Let me see if I’m understanding this…
Lots of car lots claim to sell “certified” cars. To me that does not mean a thing unless it is certified by the actual corporation certifying it as a factory CPO (Certified Pre-Owned) car.
I would be sure, if I were you, that the Toyota is a factory (Toyota) CPO car. It sounds like it is one.
A Honda at a Nissan dealer? A Toyota at a Nissan dealer? A Lifetime Powertrain Warranty?
A word of caution… I think these cars compared with a Toyota genuine CPO car from a Toyota dealer could be an apples to oranges comparison. I do not believe that a Toyota purchased from other than Toyota can be a genuine factory CPO car.
Many of us have seen after-market lifetime warranties that are worth the paper they are printed on.
Also, what about warranty coverage on the rest of the vehicle (other than drivetrain)? Read Toyota’s CPO warranty ( •Covers any repair or replacement of components which fail under normal use due to a defect in materials or workmanship for 12 months/12,000 miles). I like this coverage for peace of mind if the car has a problem that wasn’t noticed immediately.
Long story short, I’d go for the Toyota genuine factory CPO cars.
CSA
First off, you can get the deal you want on any new car. In buying a new car, there is no such thing as a firm price…if that price is reasonable and provides some profit for the dealer. The best advice on a buying a new car is to read all information on how to get your best deal on buying a new car. You will find many hidden ways on how to get the best deal on any new car…including paying less than what the dealer pays the manufacturer. These tricks are fun to learn…and can save you a lot of money. One strategy I use when buying a new car…is to buy it when they first arrive at the dealer. For instance, I bought my 2015 Sonata SE in 2014 July 5. There are a lot of advantages to buying this early. Saving on manufacturer to dealer incentives is one, saving on possible increases thru the year is another. And having the car for 6 months before it starts to depreciate from that year is yet another. There are other advantages in addition when studying the game of buying a new car. One special note: Never ever buy a used car from a car dealer. Instead buy from a private owner advertised in papers such as the recycler. Why should you pay the used car dealer’s profit, when you can cut him out as the middle man by buying from the private seller yourself. Also, you claim that you have a mechanic friend. He can help you out a lot on your buying choices. I still say that the best buys are the Accents and Sonatas. And as used cars, they are much better values than Toyotas. Ask your mechanic.
@common_sense_answer The Nissan dealership also owns a Honda and Toyota dealership. Technically I’d be buying it from the Toyota dealership. They just brought it up to the Nissan dealership for me because it’s closer. I will check any warranties closely. They offer a lifetime warranty on the powertrain as long as I have proof that I did all maintenance required. I always do so that shouldn’t be a problem. Anything else I should look out for? I’m heading up to test drive tonight or tomorrow morning.
@Rick_Woodbury My mechanic said Toyota, Honda, Kia, and Hyundai are all good options. Toyotas and Hondas hold their resale better. That was his advice beyond making sure he looks at it.
Kia made now in the Hyundai plant. So the counterparts (in styles/models) are essentially the same. Toyota and Honda do hold their resale value. But trade-off is the premium price tag. I have owned Toyota and Honda. Then owned Hyundai…never gone back to Toyota or Honda. And would never want to. BTW, the so-called super coat is BS. In fact, I believe it is the brand Nu car wax that you find in most auto parts stores for a couple of bucks. Take your time in your purchase. Test drive similar type cars. Feel how each fits on you as far as road feel, visibility, and maneuverability. Also, keep this in mind: The Toyotas and Hondas are popular used cars. This may also mean that they are driven and passed along more than other cars.
@Rick_Woodbury We did test drive a Kia Optima (liked it) and Hyundai Elantra (it was okay.) I’ve been looking for a few weeks now. The 2018 Toyota Corolla that I am probably getting drove beautifully. My cousin works in the finance dept at the dealership so they knocked $1500 off the price and threw in the gap coverage (100%) free. It has lane assist and something about front end collision assist. (Still reading the details.) It also has the remainder of the warranty which is 23,000ish miles or 30 months. It was a demo car and it has just around 5,900 miles on it. They showed me the service records and gave me a copy of the lifetime powertrain warranty that’s included so I can read over it. My mechanic is looking at it tomorrow. I feel like this is a pretty good option assuming my mechanic agrees.
It’s hard to go wrong w/a Corolla, esp if your mechanic’s pre-purchase inspection shows no problems. As far a reliability, Toyota’s, Honda’s, Nissans, Kia’s, Hyundai’s all seem to do well in the first 10 years, with only a few exceptions. Past the 10 year mark the Toyotas and Hondas seem to be a little more reliable than the others.
Your friend may be a better friend to his dealership. $1500 discount on a 2018 at this time period (any car) is an insult to most astute buyers. You can probably get it for a $4000 minimum discount with a little car buying savvy learned from the internet or car buying guides. In fact, if you wait for the 2020 Corolla (if not out already), you can probably get it for the same price as they are asking for the 2018 Corolla…and I’m not kidding. Most people will say that is hard to believe. But I have been a conscientious shopper for the better part of my life. Keep in mind, no matter how friendly the dealer or salespeople seem…they are not your buddy…profit is their friend…strictly business. As far as warranty goes, any good quality car worth its salt (like Toyota and Honda) should not have problems (unless a lemon). So a warranty for those cars are not that important. And don’t waste money on buying an extra miles warranty on new cars. It is a dealer ripoff. Any good quality car should not need an extra warranty. Nowadays cars are made to go easily 250,000 miles and a lot more trouble free, if maintained properly and on schedule. Btw, Hyundai new cars have the best warranties in the business. Note: If you are dead set on buying this particular Toyota…try this: It may be too late, because they probably have already sized you up as an eager buyer…which is a no no to show a salesperson. Just tell them that you would like to buy that Toyota, but the $1500 discount is just not good enough to make you buy it. Your aim would be to double the discount ($3000 off); and believe me, they can do it easily. But because they believe they have you already, don’t expect them to offer a much higher discount. You have to work them…because they will be definitely working you. They will ask you what you want. Just play the hard to get game. You can say something like…$1500 is definitely not enough discount on this car. You can say something like the 2020’s are out or coming out soon, and this 2018 will be 2 yrs old compared to the new ones…so $1500 discount is just not enough. They will still low ball you…so keep looking disagreeable. Finally, after trying to pull them into offering you a much better deal…but not quite $3000…tell them you need to get at least a $4000 discount on this car because it is almost 2 years old. You would be shooting over your goal, but that’s how bargaining works. Now after a long time of them waiting you out, they have an idea of what you want. Don’t settle…unless they come within a $100 of your goal of a $3000 discount. If they do not budge at all or very little…just tell them that you think you will do more shopping around…and prepare to leave. As you are leaving, say this, ‘give me a $3000 discount on the car and I will buy it!’ Keep in mind that if they don’t satisfy you…and your credit is good…you can find the same car with same equipment already marked down lower than what they are offering…at another dealer.
Rick , give up . Lisa has this under control and what you write ( could not wade through all of it ) is not going to work for all people or all areas of the country.
That’s what the salesman says they offer. He might even believe it.
Read the actual warranty terms and conditions very carefully. Lots of those “lifetime” warranties exclude a lot of stuff, or have absurdly draconian conditions for compliance. Still others aren’t actually warranties at all, but service agreements. The tell for that is if you will be required to furnish a co-pay when using the “warranty.” If that’s the case, it’s not a warranty at all, and you’d be better off putting the money for the warranty into a savings account.
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If you just put a lot into the Ford Escape and all it needs now is an ABS sensor…then just replace the sensor. It is held in with one bolt, its inexpensive and can be swapped out in a matter of minutes.
Dont spruce up a vehicle to the point where you have gotten it to be running and driving reliably and then sell it because a light bulb burnt out after a bunch of money invested…that’s just silly.
Normally I’d agree with you, but having been saddled with a fleet of leased Escapes at work for the last decade-plus, you’re never done fixing them. We once had 90% of our fleet down for clutch pack replacements in 1.5 year old cars.
I’ve said elsewhere that you have to independently evaluate specific models from manufacturers. The Mustang, for example, is from everything I can tell a good car. The Escape is pure bottom-barrel cheap crap. Always has been. Probably always will be. If I owned one and it was running, I’d unload it before it broke something expensive again.
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Oooh… @shadowfax I had no idea that one needed a good “escape plan” from that particular Ford model. If that is the reality of things then I suppose it makes sense then. However, it does not make sense to change lanes into the VW Jetta…of that I am certain. No Bueno, unless you do your own work.
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Yeah. Out of the frying pan, into a more-cramped frying pan. 
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@Honda_Blackbird My mechanic said some more expensive issues were coming up soon so it was best to get out.
@shadowfax I could not agree more. That’s why I’ve done way more research this time.
I just brought home a 2018 Toyota Corolla with 5,700 miles on it. I am thrilled! I’d attach a picture if I knew how. I went a little outside my price range but for a practically new car, it’s worth it.
Edited to add: I failed to mention the lifetime powertrain warranty was included free. I just need to keep my maintenance records, which I do anyways.
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Congratulations on Your new car.
Now is the time to go out in Your garden and have a party.
Great! Enjoy your new car.
Is that powertrain warranty from Toyota or is it aftermarket? My guess is aftermarket, but I haven’t seen the warranty.
There you go ! Enjoy your new Toyota. Just maintain it properly / proactively and you will have a safe, reliable, fun and economical vehicle on your hands.
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@jtsanders I would guess aftermarket. My mechanic looked at the warranty paperwork before I signed and said it looks good as long as I keep my paperwork. I still have tax returns from 1987 so I think I’ll be fine there. 
Thanks everyone. I really appreciated all of the advice! Now I just hope I can sell the Escape! crossing my fingers
I thought this vehicle was meant to be for your daughter . How does she feel about it ?
