Needed for 2009 Honda Civic
Warped my rotors on racing last night, must of got to hot.
Instead of going to autozone and getting the cheapest rotor and the basic breaks, I wanna take the time in the future to avoid this issue, especially on modified cars that produce more heat anyways.
Let me know what to get! I’m willing to wait a couple days if you guys recommend something on like rock auto, doesnt have to be a local orileys or autozone.
Get vented, slotted, and cross-drilled rotors for performance. You also want performance pads and you might want to replace the calipers to help stop at high speed. Don’t buy racing equipment unless you only drive your Civic in the track.
Not drilled! NOT drilled! Slotted only!
The drilled holes are no longer needed with modern pads and the rotors crack through the holes! Pro-level IMSA racers do not use drilled disks. Drilled rotors are for looks, not performance these days.
That said, rotor quality is a huge deal for me. Big, heavy, fast, Mustang that is very hard on brakes.
Not sure if these are the right ones for your car, you didn’t tell us the model.
From RockAuto, Brembo 09A40711, plain 300 mm front rotor, known good quality.
Or from Tire Rack,
Centric 125.40056CRY 125 series high carbon cryo-treated rotor
Or Centric 126.40056CSL slotted cryo-treated rotor.
The cryo-treat will help the wear and warping.
You may also find these on Amazon or Walmart’s web sales.
Brake pads are a big deal, too. High temp pads will minimize fade and wear. Stoptech Sport Pads can do light track duty. EBC had street/track pads, maybe Hawk as well, their Street 5.0 or Street/Race pads.
You can have the drilled/slotted look on the street with slotted and dimpled rotors. Instead of drilling all the way through the rotor, they only go about the same depth as the slots so they don’t crack from hole to hole. This is the best option for street/track use.
Hawk street/track pads are among the best pads. Do not order track only pads if you are driving on the street, they have poor grip until they get good and hot. Street driving may not get them hot enough. If your calipers allow for a quick change of the pads, then you could get a good set of pads for the street and a set of track only pads that you swap in on race day.
Ceramic pads are good for the street, carbon fiber pads for the track.
Races are only Fri/Sat, so other then that it’s a normal car with boost and just a heavy foot lol.
Basically I know the heat caused the rotors to be warped, So wanted something that can either A) Handle the heat or B) can reduce the heat. I knew stock parts would probably just leave me where i am now, if I went to the store today and got the basic.
Off yours, and mustangs response i was looking at
BREMBO UV Coated Front Rotors part# 09545731 off RockAuto
StopTech 308.08290 Street Brake Pads; Front with Shims and Hardware Off amazon
+1! Crossdrilleds are bad, m’mkay?
I run Brembos on any car that’s going to be hard on the brakes.
The slots aren’t going to help much if at all with warp, but they will help a cushioning layer of outgassing not form between the pad and the rotor when things get really hot.
I’d go with Porterfield R4S pads if you don’t plan to change pads when you get to the track and again when you leave. They’re a good blend of track-capable without underperforming at street driving temperatures. They survived several sessions of me bombing around Road America for 45 minutes, which is a track that is very hard on brakes.
You should also think about upgrading your brake fluid. You probably have DOT 3 or 4 in there now. I would run DOT 5.1 myself (not 5 - that’ll mess things up if your system has 3 or 4 now).
And you will want to change that fluid a lot more frequently than your owner’s manual calls for, because as fluid ages, its boiling point lowers which means you will fade your brakes faster.
A good way to prevent warping rotors is to do a cooldown drive after your race. You don’t want to pull right off the track and stop in your paddock, even though you will see the more serious race teams do just that. But that’s because they’re changing brakes at least every other race anyway, so it doesn’t matter. For drivers with mere mortal bank accounts, you want to give those brakes a chance to get down to street temperatures before you park the car. Head out of the paddock and drive around the parking area for awhile, whatever you need to do to cool them off.
Another thing to think about if your brakes aren’t cooling effectively enough is to run tubing from holes in the bumper to just in front of the front brakes, which will serve as a ram air cooler for the brakes when you’re on the track. Like this:
Don’t get fooled into buying a $500 “brake cooling race kit,” though. Some shop vac or dryer hose, a cut-off funnel, and some zip ties is all you need.
I would strongly recommend using the Stop Tech 309.08290 Sport Pads as they are designed for light track days where the Street Brake pads are not designed for that much heat.
As you become a better driver, you must go to a higher rated brake pad. You WILL use the brakes harder as you carry more and more speed. Porterfield R4’s, Hawk HP Pus or even Hawk Black, or DTC 30 brake pads. They still work fine (but noisy) on the street, I’ve run both. I like Hawk.
Performance brake rotors and pads don’t reduce heat… they handle it better, but don’t reduce it. If you want reduction, follow @shadowfax’s advice and build yourself some brake cooling ducts. And use the best brake fluid you can find. Wilwood 570 is quite good as is Motul 600 and even better is Motul 660.