Before you go thru the B.S. of trying to get a battery to fit that’s not meant for your car,. look for the battery date code of manufacture.
The battery you’re trying to get to fit may not last long it’s 5 years old or older.
Tester
1 Like
That battery in the first picture you posted is already 7 years old, it doesn’t have much life left in it.
30/June/2018
2 Likes
I understand that, but doesn’t it being 100% charged mean something? I just want more power than what I had before.
I can see that, but if it works for @ least a year, that’s better than the economy one I used. If anyone can estimate exactly how long it’ll last, then it’s 100% worth reconsideration. I’m just disappointed w/ what I already got.
You could recharge the other battery, it doesn’t take much effort.
And now that it has sat off the charger for a few hours, what is it’s voltage?
1 Like
That means nothing.
Have battery conductance test performed on the battery to determine its real condition.
Tester
In other words, you have no idea what you’re doing. You “guessed” it wasn’t the alternator (did you ever check the charging voltage with a meter?). And you hit the starter “lightly w/ a hammer” and that was your test? And you refer to “the weak battery.” Why was it “weak?” maybe all of that bling is giving you a parasitic draw. And how did you check the main power cables?
Here’s what I say - you’re set on what you’re doing. So buy the thingamajig that might hook up your wrongly sized and oriented battery to the car and give it a whirl. I’d imagine that the CCA is fine for the car and you just need to hook it up. All you’re talking about is needing extensions to make the cables reach. It’s not rocket science.
1 Like