… for people who want a “basic” car with low odometer miles.
A guy in Florida, with a limited budget, was able to buy this 1965 Studebaker–with only 34k miles on the odometer–for $1,900. He has been using it as his daily driver for the past month, and reports that it has been trouble-free.
Why would they shed a tear?
This car’s dependable Chevy 6, coupled with a 3-speed manual, should be reasonably economical. No, not “economical” in comparison with a modern Corolla or other modern economy car, but MUCH more economical than the stuff that was being peddled by Detroit during that era.
Emissions… cause Cali and other states hate old cars…
I don’t have an issue with any year vehicle, new or old, like them all, mostly…
If they “hate” those old cars, why are they exempt from emissions testing?
Smog Inspections - California DMV)
Never mind, it was a bad joke… sorry…
I deleted it, my bad…
Yes, it was a very bad joke. My state–which copies much of the CA emissions regs–has this “onerous” 
requirement for vehicles of that era:
And, even though that Florida guy was able to buy a plain-vanilla version, I have always wanted to own one of Studebaker’s speed record-holders:
That thing has so much rust on the trunk lid id be ashamed to be seen in it.
Now that’s a horse of a different color!
I think it is great this buyer was able to find a reliable ride for a budget used-car price. Hopefully it has been driven occasionally & well maintained and the age-related parts (rubber bushings, seals, etc) have been periodically replaced. If not, good jobs for a classic-car diy’er.
That is not rust, that is Patina and very desirable on a lot of old cars, people are paying BIG money for faux paint, even on 200K+ race cars… But to each their own…
So would I, but we do have a few forum members who think that any modern car is The Work of The Devil because of technology, and I think that they would likely accept some rust, in lieu of modern technology.
I would be mostly concerned with the rubber that is a crumbly mess than any partina on the trunklid… That and the single dual master cylinder. The master is easily fixed, some of the rubber would be more challenging.
I’d save up for aftermarket AC, too.
That 6 is dead stone reliable and very easily repaired if needed. I might even still remember how to rebuild the carb and set point gaps.
In Florida? W/O AC?? Nope nope nope…
I’d be embarrassed about its visual condition as well. Just today I saw an older Chrysler Pacifica with peeling pain on the roof , sun damage presumably, and thought “I wonder why those folks don’t fix that paint job? Thinking to myself that I’d feel embarrassed to be seen driving a car looking like that!”
Those paint problems (on this post’s car) look like simple surface rusting and will probably be fairly easy to resolve back to a presentable condition, at least from standing 6 feet away.
Still gets hot in Minnesota in the summer. That’s why windows roll down. My dad had one of those similar. Trouble free except check the rubber fitting on the vacuum line so it doesn’t come off.
In… relatively.… cooler and less-humid NJ, it would also be a “nope” for me, but for our forum members who consider A/C and any techonology that emerged after… let’s say… 1990… this might seem to be a wonderful thing.
A car enthusiast would repaint the trunk lid before lunch, a critic would buy a new car.
In Minnesota, the windows must open the let the flies out.
Number of months averaging > 80F, Green Bay/Miami: 1/9
Number of months averaging > 90F, Green Bay/Miami: 0/2
And this leaves out the sauna-like humidity in much of FL…
Is that old engine an F head or just an L head?
