I think you are looking at this all wrong. The first thing to consider is what are your objectives and what are you willing to sacrifice to achieve them.
Better street handling? Summer only? All Season?
Rank these on order of importance to you.
The next step is to select tires that are most compatible with those objectives. When selecting tires, also consider whether you will change wheels to a larger diameter, greater offset, wider rim width, cooler looks.
The tire/wheel combination determines your next step for the suspension. When you go into a corner, the wheel, which is attached to the vehicle, pushes the tire to the outside of the turn. The tread of the tire, which is in contact with the pavement, pushes the tire to the inside of the turn. This causes the tire to “roll under” and lift the inside tread off the road, or at least reduce the pressure on the tread while increasing the downward pressure on the outside of the tread.
A good suspension will make the camber of the wheel go more negative on the outside wheel in the turn and more positive on the inside wheel just the exact amount to offset the tires “roll under” so the downward pressure on the tread is even all the way across the tread.
Two things do this. One is the castor of the wheel. This is the tilt in the vertical axis of the wheel. The more positive the castor, the more the camber will go negative on the outside wheel and positive on the inside wheel.
The other thing is body roll. As the body rolls, the outside control arm(s) move upward, making the castor go negative. The inside control arm(s) move downward pushing the camber more positive. So body roll by itself is not necessarily a bad thing. Too much change in the caster can cause the outside of the tire in the turn to lift. You have to balance the roll and caster to the tire.
The factory has done all this for you for the OEM tires. If you go with lower profile tires on larger rims and more offset on the rims, you need to reduce the caster change, usually through stiffer sway bars, higher spring and shock rates etc.
The rear is a different story. Unless you have 4 wheel steering, there is no caster. If you have independent rear suspension, the camber can change the same as the front, but because there is no change due to caster, wider tires are often used on the rear to compensate.
If the axle is solid back there, then usually the sway bars are smaller so that the tires can stay more vertical as the body of the vehicle rolls. The rear is more independent of the chassis. Also wider tires help too to balance between understeer and oversteer.
So everything is about your goals and finding the best balance to achieve them.