I’m somewhat hesitant to ask for more help considering I overlooked the easy solution to my last running problem, but I’ve got another problem that’s got me stumped.
My truck was noticably sluggish when it shifted into overdrive or would refuse to shift into it all together, so I decided to change the filter and fluid in it. After this maintenance task was done, and I test drove it, I noticed the problem was still there. It also seems now that it has trouble shifting in all gears. When I tried to “manually” shift it through all gears, the transmission would hold it in the previous gear, buck, shake and then shift at a higher RPM. Not only this, but if I floor the pedal, the truck doesn’t want to drop to a lower gear to increase RPM. It only bucks and carries on until I let out of the gas.
I also noticed that when I rev the engine in park, the engine does not want to go past 4,000 RPM, and I hear a “grinding” noise at about that range. In the past, I could red-line the engine in park/idle no problem. Does the auto trans have the ability to “hold back” the engine or do I have deeper engine problems?
I may try to remove the starter and inspect & lube the bendix drive. I didn’t know that could cause similar problems. Should be a simple check. Thanks. Are threre any methods to checking the tranny?
The starter appeared to be fine, I lubed it and listened to it for noise (using the old stick-to-component method) and didn’t hear anything noteworthy. I had a transmission shop tell me that the problem with shifting may lie in the engine. They said that “with electronic trans, the PCM sends the signal to shift when engine speed and vehicle speed marry at a preset point; if the engine isn’t developing the correct power the trans wont shift”. Is this something I should consider?
You should consider the throttle position, if you have the accelerator pedal pressed 3/4 of the way down to maintain 60 MPH don’t expect the transmission to shift into overdrive. The engine must be performing properly for the transmission to shift at normal speeds.
No check engine light. I’ve done ALOT of work to the engine lately, replacing several parts with new. I didn’t take note of how much pedal I had to give the thing to make it shift, but it did seem to require more RPM than what I remember it used to taking. I attributed most of what I heard or saw to the “gremlins” that come out after you make a repair, until I started trying to make it shift.
It sounds to me like you have a power loss that is making you use full throttle to get going.
This drops you vacuum and prevents you from shifting. Find out why you can’t get over 4000 rpm and I think you will have solved your problem.
Yep, you guys were right. The engine couldn’t make power due to a clogged cat converter. I removed the cat and test drove the truck and everything shifted out perfectly. Saved me a lot of trouble & money by not having to go to a tranny shop. Thanks again.
the check engine light came on the same day I decided to trouble shoot the catalytic converter. It gave me the same old P0300 misfire code. I guess the reason it took so long is because I had removed & installed the battery several times to “look around” and I only drove it on short trips.
As far as the milage, I’ve heard of a legend that if you get a million miles out of a car, the manufacturer will give you a new one to replace it. It’s my goal to prove it.
But if you DO get a million miles out of a car, the amount you’ll have saved will easily be more than the price of a new car. You’ll have saved enough money to equal having gotten a free car.
I’ve heard of simiolar promotions being done on a “one time” basis. Personally, I like the new Accords but would not want to pay the taxes on the “gift”.
