I have a moderate oil burning issue with my 3.0 L Duratec engine and I was recommended to try AutoRX. I currently use a high milage 10w 30 oil and I burn about a quart every 600 miles. I do know people with the same engine that burn less than a quart in 3k miles. I don’t know exactly what the cause of the problem is. It may be sticking piston rings or possibly valve guides. what else?
They guarantee it will help if you follow the instructions verbatim. I am generally skeptical of such products but it has come recommended from a number of sources. I checked out their website and it is pretty expensive. I would need two bottles at a total cost of over $50 dollars to do the recommended treatment. If it works I would say it is well spent money, but what are the odds it will? I don’t want to sound too negative but I really don’t understand how it can work? I get how it can clean clogged passage ways and all. On the flip side, can it do any harm?
Anyone out there with experience with this product? Thanks.
What year, and how many miles? How often do you change the oil, and with what weight and brand? There are reasons for oil burning, from a cheap $5 PCV valve that is clogged to worn-out rings and other engine damage.
Auto-RX seems to be an expensive engine flush. This will only help you if there is a lot of carbon or sludge build-up contributing to the oil consumption. I personally believe that this is too low a possibility to warrant the expense.
I’d look at replacing the PCV valve first. With a well running engine, this is a likely culprit. If it is due to wear, a leak-down test will detect any ring and valve problems.
I just like doing the diagnostics before putting faith in a miracle in a bottle.
For whats it’s worth and not that expensive I would try a bottle of seafoam and see if that helps. Another option I’ve heard of is trying marvel mystery oil, let it run in your engine for a bit, let it sit overnight and then drain the oil and change the filter. The seafoam is more for the customer who can’t change their oil where the marvel option is for the DIY since you would be changing it the next day. hopes this helps, Steve
What kind of driving has this car been subjected to? If it has been very short trip driving it can cause stuck rings,especially if someone has been using 10W 40 oil. I bought a car that had been driven less than 1/2 mile to work every day and never taken on a trip. It trailed a cloud of blue smoke, but two oil changes with Valvoline 5W 30 about 500 miles apart, a new pcv valve and a 7 mile commute of expressway driving cleared up the smoke and oil burning. The car actually gave a lurch and a puff of smoke as each stuck ring let go.
I will recommend against it, and thats based on the testimonials I read. One testimonial said that the stuff worked so good, it turned the oil black in a brand new engine. The person who wrote the testimonial thought that residual stuff in the engine from the factory caused it to turn black. The only thing that would do that is the product itself.
I agree with checking out the PCV valve and associated plumbing. If you have stuck rings, ARX works wonders. I would run a single bottle for the recommended mileage in conventional oil. Ring packs are generally cleaned up in the first 500 to 750 miles of driving. Splash fed areas in the top end take longer. For 25 bucks you will know if your oil burning issues are contaminant related or have mechanical issues, such as worn or cracked valve seals.
Check out the responses from folks that have tried it. A lot of them got better performance and gas mileage after the treatment which saves you money in the long run. While I haven’t tried the product I would use it in my vehicle if it was needed. I think your oil consumption will go down and you will get better gas mileage after the treatments.
True damage is a rare thing these days with engines. I don’t know if the car was bought new or used, so I don’t know if this was ah inherited condition or one that developed over time. It sounds like it’s been this way as long as you’ve had it. First, as recommended, verify that the PCV system is functioning properly. While a quart of consumption in 600miles can be invisible, it’s probably exiting there.
If you have the time/ability do a compression check. If not, then just use the Auto-Rx as directed. It costs more for a compression check than 2-3 bottles of Auto-Rx. It would merely verify the rings as the source.
Has this ever had an overheat?
Thanks to all who replied.
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The problem was inherited. I bought the car with 45k on it. It now has 95k. I first used 10-w30 Mobil 1 and due to the high oil consumption I changed to a cheaper dino high milage 10w-30 oil. the car may have had allot of short trips but I know it has some long high way trips. It did sit for a while too before I bought it.
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The car has not overheated as long as I have owned it.
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I changed the PCV with an OEM Motorcraft last summer and it did not seem to matter. The PCV in there seemed to be ok. I did not notice any oil leaks anywhere. Am I missing anything else to do with the PVC system?
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I can’t easily do a compression test. At least for a while. What will it tell me right now that might change anything or introduce a new root cause? The car runs ok and passes emissions fine.
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Can the AutoRX do any harm? Assuming there are stuck rings. Will it do any harm if it releases them after being stuck for nearly 50k plus miles?
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If a valve guide is leaking, will the AutoRX help, hurt or be neutral?
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Am I missing anything else?
Thanks again to every one.
I appreciate the ideas and experience shared.
Even though this reply is 6months behind the original post, those who read it may well still benefit and their mind be put at ease.
To preface, (1.) I am an ex auto tech so I know my way around cars a bit, and (2.) I am in no way affiliated with nor receive any compensation from Auto-Rx.com group.
My experience with Auto-Rx over the last 8yrs or so has been good to excellent: I have used ARx in a variety of personal as well as friends vehicles, sometimes with amazing results, not only in engines, but in transmissions and power steering racks, as well. When used according to painstakingly researched directions, this stuff really does work --and that is something you can really take to the bank in savings from delayed or eliminated overhaul co$ts. Imagine that—in am endless sea of hype and dizzying selections in the automotive chemicals shelves, here is a product that actually does what it says! Not a magic silver bullet of course, but then no wild unverifiable crazy claims made either. ARX does gently, safely, bust and dissolve sludge as well restore seal integrity to a good degree over time and mileage. Just follow those directions to the letter. ARX gives real savings value for your money - now thats rare.
To the original poster: Skeptical is a good thing actually; its when an individual is naively gullible that his money problems and other problems steamroller him. I agree with some portions of the replies here trying to be helpful; that a mechanically compromised motor, clogged crankcase ventilation system, high mileage worn components especially due to excessive oil change intervals (OCI), or cheapo oil, all contribute to excessive oil consumption and a quart every 600miles is very excessive.
Heres my experience as to what causes most oil burning, visible as blue-white smoke or not: Damaged valve stem seals that control oil from seeping into the combustion/exhaust chambers-are high likely the culprit and common. Hard carbon deposits on piston rings are also part of the problem but not to the degree of the valve seals. While it is not a cheap job to have a shop do this Valve Stem Seal R&R it will very likely cut back the oil consumption 90-95%.
These seals get damaged under one or both of two conditions present: Way too excessive OCI’s in lazy negligence and/or a hard nosed motor overheat -from a bad water pump, leaking radiator -and the previous owner just driving it “a little bit further down the road”.
Voila! Compromised valve stem seals, piston rings, valve guides and other components warped a bit more out of round and fractions away from a blown head gasket or cracked cylinder head. Moral: Change your motor oil according to car manufacturers schedule and don’t drive an overheating vehicle motor!! Out of round valve guide inserts or warped /cracked piston rings are a mechanical problem -with a replacement only solution. Valve guides and valve stem seals are two totally different puppies.
Heat and acidic combustion deposits in a lubricant compromise & destroy engine and tranny components given enough miles. ARX incidentally does NOT compromise your motor oil’s lubrication like any of those 5 or 10 minute “shock” motor flushes does. Run from those flushes like the plague and the toilet flush of good money they, in fact, are.
Now using Auto-Rx can help return control of oil consumption to an acceptable degree, by closely restoring the original integrity of all the unbroken seals in the engine or tranny , but nothing in the automotive chemical world can magically repair another fools negligence. The cost of up to three bottles of this otherwise fine product, plus two to three sets of filter + inexpensive oil for the multiple treatments, is still way cheaper than the physical “valve job” at a shop. And hey, it will be cleaning out your motor a lot more safely and gently of the bucketful of sludge that I bet big bux that your Duratec 3.0L has internally, thanks to the previous negligent owner.
Just a note about Frank Miller the inventor-extraordinare, whom I have spoken to numerous occasions via emails over the years and who is an expert in the field of lubricants: Frank is a humble fellow, who is as honest as the work week is long—and who doesn’t want anyone’s money unless they are totally satisfied with the performance of his brainchild, Auto-Rx. He will work closely with your unique situation IF you do not find answers to your problems on his extensive website Auto-Rx.com . And he personally guarantees satisfaction on every bottle of Auto-RX. Just follow the online directions. You know you can’t beat that!
Geo.