WHERE ONLINE CAN I FIND FREE HOW-TO ARTICLES/VIDEO ON SPRAY PAINTING MY CAR?
AND WHY ISNT THERE ANYTHING ON YOUR WEBSITE?
THANK YOU.
Frankly spray painting is a skill, that takes practice and the right equipment and location. It is not a job I would generally recommend for a DIY job. The reason you are not finding much is because it often turns out not so good for the DIYer.
What kind of result are you looking for? Like new? Like all the same color is good enough?
I have painted two of my cars. One I did myself (1970 VW) and it did not turn out as bad as I expected. It did take a few redoes however. The second was a Sunbeam Imp that I prepped myself and brought to a chain outfit for the actual painting. I was also happy with the results and the actual painting result was better.
If you really want to have some fun, but a few cans of auto spray paint. 
just look it up on the internet like I just did…http://www.ehow.com/how_4722987_paint-car-using-spray-cans.html…
There is NOTHING like seeing someone driving down the road in a car that look like leopard spots! I sort of think of that as suburban cammo!
But seriously; If you have a few dings/scratches on your car the hand bottles of brush in a can from the dealer will closely match the paint, and will seal up the cracks, and scrapes which lead to rust.
However, if you are trying to do a whole panel, or a large spot, then it will be a chore to match anything except white. Even then, white can be a pain, depending on how faded it is, and if it was a true white, or a blend.
Are you trying to do a spot or a whole car?3
I actually saw a website several years ago where someone had painted his VW a candycoat orange at home. Was that you? It looked incredible, especially for a rattlecan job.
THANKS FOR YOUR RESPONSES. I HAVE MY OWN EQUIPMENT (COMPRESSOR, PAINT GUNS, ETC) AND HAVE PAINTED EVERYTHING BUT CARS. I SEEK TO FIND MORE DETAILED INFORMATION THAT WILL MAKE MY FIRST SPRAYDOWN AS PAINLESS AS POSSIBLE. THE JOB: FRONT AND BACK BUMPER PANELS, HAVE FACTORY PAINT IN HAND, AND CURRENTLY DOING PREP WORK.
Some years back, my brother decided to repaint his car. He invested some time and money in an auto body course at a technical school. Since then, he has repainted several vehicles. Would this be an option for you to learn the tricks of the trade?
Does the factory paint have a flex agent mixed in? If not, and you paint the bumpers the paint will crack and peel off. You can purchase a flex agent to add to the paint from any parts store that sells auto paint supplies.
Tester
You should be aware that T&R don’t visit here. We the proletariat cannot answer why there’s no paint section on the website.
And please turn off you capslock. All uppercase is hard to read.
I think it’s a great idea to do it yourself. I’d suggest a visit to the bookstore. There are some really good books on automotive painting that I’ve seen.
Matching paint is tough. It’s amazing how much paint fades in just a few short years. We have a place locally that the bodyshops deal with that will perform a spectral scan on the surface of the old part and mix a blend that’ll give a truely amazing match. They’ll even add the plasticizer that Tester mentioned in the correct ratio and even load it into a paint gun canister for you. If the vehicle is a few years old I’d suggest seeking out one of these suppliers to repair shops rather than just going with the code. I’d have them do the mix and load the canister.
One thing your code can tell you is if your paint has clearcoat. If it does, the finish will be less than shiny until the clearcoat is applied. Again, rely on the paint shop’s advice. And try a sample part first. Clearcoat can be tricky to get even.
No I bought the new paint to match the original, I believe it was Mojave.
I painted a '53 Dodge P/U with latex house paint and a brush…It came out pretty good. (I thought)…
I painted my entire (when it got old and after countless patches) '79 Toyota pickup with Krylon spray paint. I thought that came out pretty good too. At least it was a uniform blue again.
You won’t get it free but go to Jon Kosmoski’s House of Kolor web site. He’s among the best and has videos for every type of painting. Or go to the book store or library. Off topic but I knew Jon’s sister back when I was a kid and we’d visit back and forth a bit. We went into his room once and even when he was a teen his models were absolutely first rate. Put me to shame but I was more interested in his sister.
Great input. Schooling good idea, like going to shop class back in the day, I’m on that now. As for the bookstores, they have nothing unless I order it. The library has 3 books, but no videos anywhere in the system.
I have picked up some good stuff online (pieces parts). I did not find any flex agent listed. I’m going basecoat then clearcoat. I will be looking in to this. Good tip.
You get the flex agent the same place you buy your paint and supplies, Dupont, etc. Stick with one brand for your primer, sealer, base, clear, reducer, clear additive, etc. You’ll need $3-500 by the time you get out of the store, depending on what color you use.
Also, the new urethanes are very good but very very dangerous. You abolutely have to have a good respirator and should have a self contained breathing apparatus with a body suit when you use it. That’s why I don’t do much any more-the stuff is just too toxic. Body men are dieing left and right fromt he exposure.
A toxic new interest is not something I look forward to. I know paints and chems are definately bad if ingested, but I thought the respirator was good defense, definately don’t want to be the next casket case. How can I find what paints are this toxic and what quality paints are not?
Theres definately more to auto painting than I expected, and I keep getting information on things that must be considered before painting. I’m going to do my homework on this and go thru the materials I have, theres more to painting than pulling the trigger.
The majority of my painting has been motorcycle work but I’ve done panel painting on a few cars and one full paint job. (Plum Crazy Purple on an English Ford!) I don’t think any of the following has been mentioned so maybe some of it can be of assistance.
Try to use a HVLP gun; less wasted paint and less chance of runs.
Humidity is a huge influence on how well he paint comes out so keep the compressor drained, try to use a long run of pipe/hose with at least one water trap, and keep those drained during the painting process.
(Here in OK during warm weather humidity is a huge problem and I’ve really wrestled a few motorcycle paint jobs; especially when shooting lacquer. It has a tendency to blush very badly.)
Some Fish Eye eliminator is also a good idea.
Just read the warning labels on the cans. The urethanes are the worst versus the lacquer, enamel, and acrylic. Just ask for the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the product or usually they are available on line. They have to give you this information.