Audi a3 overheating

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Hello, i bought used audi a3 7-speed automatic 2010 1.6 TDI 105 Horse power. The dealer said it was imported from another country with faulty robot that shifts gear, he fixed it and truly the car shifts gears very smooth. However recently i had a problem where whenever i drive the car for like 15min and it reaches working temp, the motor fan gets extremely loud. At first i thought its how its supposed to be or something wrong with the fan. But than when i was going to another town up the mountain hills around 45min drive i saw temp gouge going almost in the red. I instantly stopped the car and temperature went down quickly, however when i went uphill again same thing happened. But when im on flat road or downhill temp stays at 90. I gave car to mechanic and its been there for 17 days now. He says he did thermostat change, tempreture readers etc, checked the radiator and it was clean, checked coolant and it was at optimal level( since car was imported we dont know if its right one tho or how long it was in there), he did DPF regen and turned on diagnostics that show nothing strange and this keeps happening. He sent car to electrician to see if there is any faulty wiring but he says he didnt encounter this before.

Any of you guys have an idea?

Have the mechanic check the temperature of the transmission fluid when the car starts to overheat.

There’s a transmission fluid cooler inside the radiator. And if the transmission starts to overheat it can cause the engine to overheat.

Automatic+Transmisisosn+Fluid+Tempreture+Chart-2

Tester

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Good idea about the transmission fluid above. If that doesn’t pan out, you may just have a slightly clogged radiator. Wouldn’t be unheard of, given the car’s age. If it is the original radiator, probably makes the most sense to just replace it on a hope. The alternative is for your shop to do a radiator flow test. The challenge you have however is there are many problems that can cause this same symptom. Probably next in line is the cooling system isn’t holding the correct pressure. Ask your shop if a cooling system pressure test should also be considered? Do you ever see a small puddle of coolant under the car? The most common spot for a coolant leak on a 2010 would probably be from the water pump, so any coolant leak in that area, and you have the original water pump, it probably needs to be replaced.

First, George’s answer is to test the component before replacing, and a couple minutes later recommends replacing a component on a hope without testing it first. :thinking:

Tester

2 Likes

lol … a true inconsistency, fair point. My only defense, can’t really compare an electronics module vs radiator. Apples and oranges.

What came 1st, the chicken or the egg??
I have seen radiators (rad) causing an engine and transmission to overheat, I have also seen a transmission overheating adding excess heat to a weak cooling system… If the transmission fluid (ATF) looks good, clean with no offensive odor and shifting ok and temp is normal, then it sounds like the rad is unable to cool the engine down going up hills under a load… A water pump could also not be flowing enough to keep the engine cool under load either… I have had rusted fins in a water pump partly missing, vehicle would only over heat under load for example…

Had a customer with a leaking water pump that caused the rad to clog up (dex-cool) causing the rad to over heat and burn the transmission up… Yeah that was an expensive I will keep adding water to the rad and replace the water pump later…

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First of all i would like to thank all of you for answers, this is only forum thar people were interested to help me so thank you truly.

Im still waiting for my mechanic to call me but i guess electrican still didnt look at the car, if he doesnt find anything i will try to relay these messages to my mechanic

The money is not an issue as well as long as its not something giga expensive, just want to be able to use my car normaly

I doubt if the mechanic really wants to hear what strangers on the web Forum have to say .

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+1

Sorry to say, but if your shop is having to rely on strangers on an open forum to help fix any vehicle, then you probably need to find another repair shop… Or find a Euro specialist that deals with Gray Market vehicles…

I know dads old gray market Mercedes SL500 had a different engine and suspension etc than the American version and even the dealer was lost on some things about it… He bought $300 (back in the 90’s) worth of factory service manuals (3 thick) for the dealer to use when they needed info on it… remember no Google back then… lol

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This particular car seems to have an engine which was not offered in the USA, at least for that model year . . .

I dug around and it seems this particular water pump may have a plastic impeller, which I’m not a fan of

It was just a thought, and might be wrong

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The 7-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission uses dry clutches, unlikely hot transmission fluid is causing the overheating problem. A malfunctioning Direct Sift auto transmission should be very noticeable, if that were the problem.

I doubt an auto repair shop would be interested in any “tips” from this thread, there is very little information in the original post to draw worthwhile advice.

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Thanks, didn’t realize that is what it had, never looked… I agree, don’t see the trans having much effect on the engine over heating in this case now… But that plastic impeller bd5690 mentioned, makes me wonder though…

Uphill is a load on engine. And elevation could be a factor. Does a turbo motor have less issues at elevations? Only way to test at sea level might be pulling a trailer. Do you have a hitch?

Car goes really well when gas is pressed uphill or not, no hook for trailer on car