“throttle body injection” means the engine is fuel injected , not a carb. There’s two common different types of configurations for fuel injection, throttle body and port. Port injection – the most common now – means there’s an injector located near each spark plug, and each injector injects just ahead of the intake valve for that cylinder. Throttle body injection – more common in the late 80s/early 90s – has all the injectors located where the carb would have been, had there been a carb. All the injectors are near the throttle valve in other words, well displaced from the intake valves. But other than where the injectors are located, there’s not much difference between the two. Both usually use computer controlled electronic-controlled injection and the computer decides how much gas to inject via a MAF or MAP sensor (and a few other sensor) in combination with an oxygen sensor. I’m still leaning towards an exhaust restriction as my best guess. After that throttle valve is sticking, then, less likely, ignition system.
I haven’t gotten back to trying things with the car. I’m kind of hoping for an exhaust restriction. One of the other guys mentioned an oxygen sensor which I didn’t realize I even had. Sure enough it’s in the user manual. Thanks for the additional information.
Suggest you find a copy of Popular-mechanics-complete-car-care-manual . It’s a good introduction to how electronic fuel injected cars work, and will explain in a clear way most of questions you are having. Most public libraries and larger bookstores have it.
I tried a simply ‘thanks!’ but I guess I have to have at least 10 characters. Anyway, thanks!
Hello, thank you for your input. This car has a small and compact TBI system - it is a 2 piece TBI(upper and lower), There is an air flow meter located on the lower TBI next to the throttle position sensor and the Idle speed control valve. I still remember how hard it was to get to the PCV valve and all hoses had a metric ID not easy to find at local store. And electrical was also another nightmare, even at the dealer. Well, thank you.
Hi. This is Verlin again and I’m sending this to you because you were probably the last response I had about my '87 Nissan Pulsar. There’s been a lot of discussion of possible problem. This thing runs just perfect for about 30 minutes and then you cannot accelerate, nothing more than an idle. Have you ever dealt with the ECM, engine control module? My understanding is it controls fuel, timing and probably more on fuel injected engines. Although a totally different use, I had a '78 (I believe) Dodge Aspen that acted similarly, would run for awhile and then cut out. Turns out that it was a control module that was the problem. I think that is what is going on with this Nissan, that unit is failing after a period of time. Once cooled off it’s good to go. Any thoughts.
Hello, VerlinSchouck. I think you had a problem with the ignition system on your Aspen, but that would shut off the engine. When you say you can not accelerate after warm, do you mean:
a) car in park, step on gas, rpm goes up;
b) car in park, step on gas, rpm stays the same;
c) car in park, step on gas, engine dies;
d) car in park, step on gas, engine misfire, rpm does not goes up at all;
e) car in park, step on gas, engine misfire, rpm does not goes up erratically;
f) car in drive, step on gas, rpm goes up, car does not move;
g) car in drive, step on gas, rpm goes up, car struggles to move, misfires, buckle;
h) car in drive, step on gas, rpm goes up, car struggles to move, misfires, buckle, engine dies.
I put more than one choice here, it will eliminate problem areas within the car. I do not want to misguide you to get an ecm, I remember parts for this car where very, very hard to find where I live back in the early 2000’s can not imagine now. Also I need to know if you can tell me if your Pulsar is California emissions or 49 states. Again , this car has a advanced engine control module for that time and Nissan has put in some indicator lights to help troubleshoot it.
I remember removing the passenger seat to get access to the ECM, Also if you do so, you will be able to feel if it is getting hot.
Do you mind giving me your vin number so I can try to decode it ?
Thank you.
Joe
Not sure how to give you the information to fit your definitions. This is a 5 speed. The last time it happened I had slowed to make a square corner and shifted from 5th to 4th to 3rd. The road I turned onto is the beginning of a hill. The car seemed to get fuel but there was no spark advance so it was kind of a bucking sensation. The engine continued to run as I stopped. I tried low and the engine was the same, almost as if fuel was there but no spark as needed. No increase in the rpm and obviously no movement. Engine idles perfectly at this point. Turn the ignition off and restart is immediate. There are no indicator lights of any kind on the dash. This is not a California emissions. By moving the passenger seat all the way back the ECM is accessible. A couple of people suggested a plugged cat and suggested removal of the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold. I removed that and there was no effect that I could see.
I appreciate your input to this. From what I’ve read the ECM cannot be tested. The one in the car indicates it is a rebuilt one by Nissan. As far as I know this is the original ECM, my family has owned the car from about 50k miles and we’ve not replaced it. Thanks again.
This is an open web site and you should never put personal information on it. Edit out your VIN . No one here needs it .
@cdaquila Edit time again?
Good morning.
Thank you for your answer, the fact that there is reaction from the engine (bucking) is a good thing, it eliminates many other options; on the other hand the ECU has a built in error report, as long as it can detect that there is something wrong. So please watch this, it is pretty close to what I used to do…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RK4ADgSKTA
Now, the pulsar also has a Mode 3 error report, In order to enter do this:
1)pull the ECU from under the passenger seat, be careful with the wires and the connector so you do not cut, pinch or damage it;
2)drive the car to warm up, this should start your symptoms;
3)on the side of the ECU you will see a window with two led diodes, red and green and a hole with a flat end kind of knob. You will need a flat blade screwdriver to do it.
4)turn that knob fully clockwise;
5)wait until both leds blink 3 times in sequence then turn knob fully counterclockwise. Now read the flashing codes.
this image will show that they blink on intervals:
it is something like Morse code.
Now this are the codes:
1 green 1 red crank angle sensor
1 green 2 red air flow meter
1 green 3 red water temperature sensor
2 green 1 red ignition signal
2 green 2 red idle speed control
3 green 3 red exhaust gas sensor
4 green 1 red air temperature sensor
4 green 2 red throttle position sensor
4 green 3 red mixture ratio feedback control (fuel injector)
4 green 4 red system normal.
Just to make sure we are in the same page, after this problem have anyone replaced wires, spark plugs, gas filter, distributor cap and stuff like that ?
Have you ever replaced the oxygen sensor ?
Do you have a timing light ?
Thank you for your answers.
Thanks for the info. All of the tune-up parts you mention have been replaced. The engine was tuned up by a good mechanic before any of this started. I’ll see what I can do with the info you’ve sent. I think I do have a timing light but I don’t think that’s a problem. Before this problem sets in the engine runs very well, quick and smooth for an engine with 235k miles. Thanks again.
You really should edit your VIN out . If you don’t know how at the bottom of your post you will see what looks like a slanted pencil , click on that.
Forgot to mention, don’t know how old the oxygen sensor is but I have a new one and plan to replace it.
I honestly don’t think posting the vin is that big of a deal
it’s not as if the guy posted his full name, street address, phone number and social security number
There seems to be an effort to disrupt the conversation in each thread with a complaint, don’t like to see a VIN, don’t like to see a persons name, don’t like a email address etc. Moderator, can you please straighten out this new member so that they don’t feel welcome here.
Good morning, VerlinSchock;
You can use the timing light to eliminate a problem with the ignition system, as you accelerate after the problem sets up you if the timing changes at all. Now, just want to make sure, on the emissions label, does it says that your engine code is B16i (1.6 liter) or 1.8 liter; I have a friend that had a beautiful black Pulsar 5 speed with a 1.8 engine. Timing belt also is something you have to be careful to replace and the Ox sensor have a reminder light on the dash that turns on every 60k miles for replacement.
It is great you made it to 235k, again, my wife would be driving her Pulsar if ours had lasted the head gasket twice. You drop the back seat and it is great for shopping, beach and more.
Good luck;
Joe
It’s a 1.6, sure of that. Know when the timing belt was changed. Had one break on an '83 sentra, same engine. Had to replace the head. It had 225k on it when I sold it, original clutch. Hadn’t thought of carrying the timing light to check. Probably just verify what I think is wrong. Thanks for your input.
Thank you!
My best Nissan ever was a Datsun 1982 carburetor with the 1.6l engine, automatic, made for Canada, no ECM, not even in the distributor, plain vanilla car, always started, only problem was the rear shock tower that rusted through but I welded a new piece to hold it. Ran well until I took to somebody else to change the timing belt. Within 2 or 3 months, the belt broke when I was driving at 60 mph, oil everywhere and piston came out on side of engine. Less than 150k miles on it. The tensioner was never replaced, I did not checked the water pump, now if I can I either do my timing belt or I require the shop to let me see what they are doing. I have a few shops around me that I don’t bring my cars to them. i am kind of picky with my money, as hard it comes in has to be hard to come out.
Thank you for your message.
I let my Sentra timing belt go too long before changing and that’s why it broke. I think it had 94k on it when it broke. Didn’t realize what it would do to the engine. I watched it much closer after that and I changed it myself after that. It was a great car, I had to replace one of the front wheel bearings and that was pretty much it. The rotters were pressed on the axle so I changed only the brake pads, roughed them up a bit but that was it.