If possible I would cut a hole in the splash pan to access the drain plug. Of course there is a lot to consider in locating such a hole and the oil would likely drain onto the plastic pan where it would dribble off when driving. But that pan and the screws/clinch pins that hold it will likely not survive repeated removals.
Boy that oil extractor sure looks inviting the older I get! But Iām with the crowd on this one . . . do it right and drain from the bottom of the engine. If it were my vehicle Iād look for a way to either get rid of or make it easier to remove the offending plastic cowling. It doesnāt seem like that is the way it should be designed, maybe post a picture? I once cut a hole in the cowling under the radiator on my old Accord to allow for easier access to the drain plug, it was a real pain otherwise. Good luck! Rocketman
@rocketman Here is an existing YT video of the huge cover. @āoldtimer 11ā If you wanted to see how to access the oil filter on my new vehicle, itās shown in this video. 
Hell, this guy cuts his cover for easy access!
Yes, I agree, the pan would not survive many repeated removals, from my experience, specially if itās done by places like jiffy-lube. Even if you do it yourself, itās risky.
Good video! Cut it like he did and youāre good to go! Rocketman
Iām a traditionalist when it comes to changing the engine oil. It gives me some one on one time with my vehicle to see whats whatā¦ It usually goes smooth as silk with no problemsā¦then againā¦how would I have noticed that BOTH my inner cv boots had cracked and started spewing grease everywhere if I didnt get under the car? I also would not have noticed the Turbo exhaust flange bolt that went missing.
So basicallyā¦unless there is something that prevents me from doing a simple oil changeā¦ Like the oil pan is 1 inch off the floor of a boat for instanceā¦ I go traditional wayā¦it lets everything in the engine and on the bottom of the pan āwash outāā¦ So I will always use the normal method unless something major stops me. Only then will I rely on an extractor. Alsoā¦many times you need that pan off to R n R the oil filter as wellā¦
If you donāt like that belly pan there are options for youā¦ You can possibly cut an access hole to do oil changesā¦or you can install an oil drain valve and extend the end out to wherever you likeā¦just open the valve and you drain your oilā¦or revamp the oil drain so that the valve is at the end of the extension to avoid belly pan removal to operate the valveā¦the valve can be the end cap of the extension hose for example. There are many styles of oil drain valve available.
Blackbird
oil drain valve. Thatās new to me, great idea. but are they reliable? Iād think you would want to lock the lever somehow. Or have one that requires a hex wrench to open.
Yep, sureā¦ They have all sorts of oil drainsā¦kinda reminiscent of old Duesenbergs and other old cars of the 30ās. They are alive and well. Just Google āEngine Oil Drain Valvesā as a simple search to see a few out there. They also have several different ways of preventing an accidental oil drain. Different methods of how the drain works (usually ball valve) ways of securing the drain leverā¦or removing the lever alltogether etcā¦ A few different styles thoā¦pretty neat and useful in certain situations. They can be especially useful when car mfgās use a flimsy steel oil pan and the threat of crossthreading or stripping out the factory drain bolt is a possibilityā¦just install the valve once and leave it aloneā¦no more stripped drain bolts or pansā¦ Less mess, fastā¦lots of positives to the drain valve actually.
Blackbird.
I Changed Oil On Lycoming Engines In Piper Airplanes Way Back When I Worked At A Little Airport. An Oil āQuick Drainā Was Standard On Them. Lift Up And Turn The Bayonet Style Fitting And It Stays Open And Draining Until You Turn It And It Snaps Shut, No Tools Required.
I always wish I had that on my cars and I know they sell them, but I would always worry something will hit it down by the road and knock it off. Probably wouldnāt happen, but a plug would be safer. Then again, my Pontiacs have a āLow Oil Levelā Alertā¦ Maybe Iāll reconsiderā¦
On an airplane, the drain sits up higher and is protected and stays free of road dirt, which could be nasty on cars, inches off the deck.
Another cool thing about the airplane quick drains was that it was designed so you could slip plastic tubing onto it and direct the oil down through the engine cowl, and right into a collection container!
CSA
I thought some were actually plumbed into the drain plug opening,seen a good many on the Macks,I used to drive.
Many of our trucks have on-board generator, inverters, welders, etc.
And some of them have a very simple oil drain valve. They work just fine
By the way, I think that when people remove and discard their splash pans, they are being foolish, to a degree. Not only are those splash pans there for noise and aerodynamics, theyāre also there to catch spills and protect the engine from road debris
I donāt think cutting a 2" X 2" hole bellow the drain plug and another one under the filter would cause much aerodynamic issues. Alas, on this car the OP can access the filter from above, so just need one hole for the drain plug.
Would be curious to take the car to the dealer for one oil change and watch them do it and see how they work around it.
I agree with db that removing and not reinstalling a splash pan is foolhearty, for the reasons he outlined.
I also agree that a small cutout should have no significant effect in most cases. However, you can buy a plastic hole plug 3" or 4" in diameter for perhaps less than $2 and a hole cutter to match at hardware stores. And IMHO itās easier to cut a clean round hole than a square hole, and the plug could easily pop in and out for oil changes. Iād remove the splash panel for the purpose of cutting the hole, however, and reinstall it after cutting, just to prevent accidentally cutting something you donāt want to cut.
And thereās another reason I prefer round holes. Corners of square holes are spots where stress from things like vibration concentrates itself. In engineering theyāre called āstress risersā, and cracks form from themā¦ often from vibration. Thatās why corners in square holes punched into things are generally āradiusedā, and why repairing propagating cracks involves drilling a round hole at the end to stop the cracking. Round holes donāt have stress concentration areas, so theyāre far less likely to crack under use.
My son solved the oil splash problem on His 2015 Sonata that was so bad that the dealer replaced the pan after changing the oil. The pan has a thicl foam backing that the dealed could not get all the oil out of.
My son now changes his own oil and installed a drain valve with a hose that sticks down 1/2 inch below the pan and has cut a 2 liter pop bottle in a way that it surrounds the filter and lets him take the filter off with a socket extension from the bottom , up inside the pop bottle.
^^ Amazing;
I was once complaining about the water pump on the Mazda CX-9 being driven by chain and being internal to the engine. To replace the WP, both engine and transmission have to come out of the car. I felt that was a bad design. Now I can at least accept that the designers, felt their water pump would never fail-granted there are quite a few engine failures due to this.
BUT, to make an oil change such a hassle, it is beyond comprehension.
I think itās a bigger sin to have the water pump driven by the timing chain, and you have to remove the engine and transmission . . . versus having to remove some splash pans to drain the crankcase
Thatās just plain arrogance, on the part of the designers, IMO
Thatās right up there with plastic timing gears and plastic water pump impellers 
I use a cordless drill to remove those panels, it generally takes 30-45 seconds to remove them. Buy a cordless drill that doubles as a screw gun with adjustable torque settings. These are much gentler then pneumatic tools that damage these small fasteners.
Both the Ford Fusion and the Mazda 6 my wife and I drive have full protective pans under the engine. Both have access panels for the drain plug and oil filter. The Ford has eight screws that have to be removed. I bought a set of socket bits for my cordless drill and it takes me about a minute to remove all the bolts on the Ford to do an oil change.
I donāt understand the thought process behind having to remove the entire belly pan to get to the oil plug and filter.
To change oil on my portable generator, you have to tip it upside down and drain the oil out the filler neck. Iām quite sure there is a drain plug in the bottom, just not accessible anymore because of the generator coils. OK for now but the older I get the harder it is to pick it up and hold it over a drain pan. 
This guy made a small cutout to access the oil drain plug: