Are newer cars now under charging the lead acid battery?

Traditional vehicle alternators charge at 14.4 Volts. Sometimes 14.7. I think the 1996 Ford F150 drops down to 14 Volts when warmed up, which is a design that’s better than it could be, unless the alternator regulator is going bad and it’s an unintended feature.

If you leave a car battery on an unregulated charger it’ll stay at 14.4 to 15 Volts. After about 6 months and adding water, the battery will be ruined from over charging, but this time period is highly temperature dependent, as the current varies with temperature. A lead acid battery can be over charged by about 30 times its rated capacity before it is ruined. At engine compartment temperatures, a battery left on the charger would be ruined in about 3 months, or 2160 hours.

2000 to 3000 hours is typical for car batteries, just as expected from the over charging caused by 14.4 Volt alternators, which is similar to the unregulated battery charger. 14.4V is actually worse is southern climates because it has practically unlimited current and won’t reduce the charging Voltage as the battery gets hot and takes more current. That’s why batteries used in cars in the south sometimes last only half as long as cars in northern climates.

Over charged batteries often fail suddenly by going completely open circuit without warning. Usually there is a reduction in capacity first, but it goes unnoticed by people who start their cars every day and no not leave stuff on.

It seems that since 2010 or so vehicles have reduced the charging Voltage quite a lot. Some vehicles, like BMW, even have current sensors at the battery terminals. I’ve seen it on Ford and Mazda do this with battery Voltages at 13.5 Volts while running. There may be a brief 14.4V part of the charge cycle, but I didn’t monitor it enough. I’ve been involved in replacing two batteries that still worked but were just not being charged up enough, or wouldn’t take a charge like a new one presumably due to sulfation, the condition caused by under charging lead acid batteries. I put an 9 year old Panasonic Mazda factory battery in an older 14.4V car and it has been doing fine. 13.5 Volts just wasn’t enough anymore.

Unlike VRSLA and true deep cycle, the flooded lead acid vehicle and marine deep cycle batteries do need to be charged at 14.4 Volts for 4 hours to fully charge and not sulfate. This should be done every few weeks if the battery is in storage, and within a couple days of being discharged, such as use with a trolling motor. Nobody seems to know why this is, since other types of batteries, such as non automotive sealed lead acid, and some deep cycle such as 6 Volt golf cart batteries are able to fully charge at a lower Voltage. I learned this about marine deep cycle the hard way. I didn’t realize that 13.6 Volts won’t charge it up all the way no matter how long it charges. 14 Volts is the absolute minimum.

I wonder if manufacturers have been doing this to avoid the safety issue of batteries that suddenly go completely open circuit without warning? This way they slowly sulfate over time and may develop a shorted cell, allow the replace battery warning to work, but are less likely to fail suddenly and leave you stranded.

My 1996 Dodge has an adaptive charging system that adjusts charging rate with temperature. The PCM will adjust the charging rate to 13.2 volts on a hot day, 14.9 volts in subzero temperatures. Rapid charging adds heat to the battery, batteries last longer when they are not subjected to high temperatures.

Chrysler began using adaptive charging systems in 1984.

Are newer cars now under charging the lead acid battery?

Some hybrid vehicles charge at as low as 12.5 volts as a fuel economy strategy. Maintaining a 50% state of charge can be sufficient under most conditions but has proven to be problematic for those who only drive the vehicle once each week.

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My GMC does adaptive charging, most of the time 14 v, but on long trips it drops down to 12v or less to improve gas mileage I was told.

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My original battery in my 2012 Camry lasted 10 years even though is was parked outside in Western NY for its last to years and I did not drive it for weeks ay a time because my wife and I were in assisted living so no need to get groceries. Seemed like the charging sysyem worked well/The replacement battery is now 4 years old with no signs ofs even though it is rarely driven more than 8 miles at a time.

Did the Camry battery fail suddenly, or gradually get weaker?

Newer cars often use smart charging, so they run around 13.2 to 13.8 volts most of the time and only jump to about 14.4 volts when the ECU decides the battery needs it. That lower voltage is usually normal.

If a battery is older or already sulfated, those brief higher-voltage cycles may not fully recharge it. Using an external charger once in a while can help.

If the car keeps showing low voltage and weak batteries, it’s worth checking the battery temperature sensor and the current sensor at the battery.

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It started getting weaker over the last moth. I let it go just to see how long it would last. It died 9 years, 10 and a half months after I purchased it.

Honda did it in 2013, I have a coworker that found that out. The manufacturers are forced to pull stupid tricks like undercharging the battery to get a fraction of a percent better fuel economy but we allow everyoneto drive around in 6000lbs to 8000lb trucks for no reason.

Gm does the same thing, if headlights or rear defrosted is not on it can run the voltage down to 12.5 volts for an extended period of time.

It is noticeable on the gauge, its really noticeable if you put a voltmeter display in.

Most all modern cars have so much electrical load that idling in traffic with lights, wipers, radio, charging phones, rear defroster, blower motor fan all running hard, the alternator cannot keep up so the battery can actually be discharging. Especially when you throw in stop-start.

That can be mitigated by throttle-by-wire raising the idle speed, no doing stop-start and the charge control boosting the output voltage.

It is why 48 volt electrical systems started to appear around 2010.

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That plus the weight reduction in smaller gauge wire. There is so much wire in cars now that the weight is significant. Any reduction there is a bonus…

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On hybrids or EVs with a traction motor battery I assume, where the 48V supply is stepped down form that. It is probably for electric power steering, electric AC / heat pump, rear window defrost, maybe cabin fan. I don’t know of any regular vehicles with a 48 Volt battery.

As far as 12 Volt batteries being under charged, I’m not saying it’s a bad thing at all. It is certainly better than the old 14.4 Volt systems that would cook a battery in the hot south in 1500 engine hours.

There are some 48v systems in new Porsche and Bentley models as well as Gordon Murry’s T50 supercar. 48v heat pump/AC systems.

Some mild hybrids are using 48v batteries and the Tesla Cybertruck uses 48v as a mid-voltage power source.

48 v is still considered safe in dry conditions so special protections are not needed. The rest of the supplier industry needs to keep up with 48v products.

Normal hybrids, PHEV, and EV use a combination of 12v and much higher voltage, most 200+ volts, I think. This MB hybrid makes do with 48V, and appears to suffer because of it.

2027 Mercedes-Benz CLA220 4Matic Hybrid Is The ‘Here, ■■■■’ Of Cars

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