Price is comparable to an equivalent Cayenne GT. A less expensive alternative would be the Emira, the follow on to the Evora. The turbo 6 starts around $105,000 while the Porsche Carrera starts at about $116,000. If I had cubic yards of disposable income I’d take a test drive of the Eletra.
Probably built under an older code. My house built in the late 90’s with only 12" of insulation (R-34) in attic (code at the time). Now the code is R-38. Some states want R-40. That requires insulation on top of the joists OR foam.
I added 9" on top of the insulation I had going perpendicular to the joists. Made a big difference. Especially during the summer - much easier to keep house cool.
But, Lotus dealerships are few and far between. For a number of years, there was one in a upscale rural town near me, but they closed their doors about 6 years ago.
The last time that I had my old Outback in for service, in early 2022, I noticed what looked like a new Lotus sitting near the service area. I asked about it, and I was told that this was the first delivery for their new Lotus dealership. Huh?
It turned out that the same folks who own the Subaru dealership do indeed have a Lotus dealership, about 1/2 mile from the Subaru dealership. But, it’s located in a somewhat grimy industrial area that is not visible from any roads.
Between its relative inaccessibility and the possibility that people who have enough money to buy a Lotus might not want to venture into that type of area, I doubt that they will be successful.
Not the case here. There are two dealers in the NW DC suburbs. One is a row building and is part of the Mercedes Benz dealership across the street so maybe the showroom and certainly the repair shop are within the MB facilities.
The other is listed as a used car dealership for a very large multi-brand dealer farther north but on basically the same major city road. If I was that rich travel of about 30 miles would be of little consequence. Heck, I’m retired and the same applies.
I was at a forum recently where there were representatives from large car dealer automotive groups, (e.g. lots of dealerships). Several said their EV sales are way off.
The mechanically-identical Subaru Solterra and Toyota BZ4X seem to be sitting–in growing numbers–on dealers’ lots. In the case of these vehicles, I think it is because their range is not attractive to prospective buyers. FWD versions have a range of 252 miles, and AWD versions can go only 228 miles. I think that Toyota made some bad decisions in the design phase for these vehicles.
Range is a trade with MSRP and return in investment. I imagine that Toyota has ROI rules that dictate the other two. If they thought that the range could be increased without significant adverse effect on sales, they would have done it.
It is about 32 cents per KWH here in San Jose. The price is going up substantially next year to pay for undergrounding power lines, said to be required for wild fire prevention. It seems like it would be considerably less expensive to just remove the trees near the power lines.
Here in “high cost” NJ, I pay 15.64 cents per KWH to the utility company, and then my membership in a community solar program (which feeds electricity into the utility’s network) nets me a rebate of 21% on that cost.
There are no solar panels on my roof because the panels are located on the roofs of warehouses and other industrial buildings, but because of that community solar program, I wind up paying less than the (apparently) already reasonable cost for electric power in this region. Until others started posting their electrical costs, I honestly didn’t know that my rate was actually fairly reasonable.
Here in Virginia, back in the '70s, they used to say “Welcome to Dominion, formerly the state of Virginia…” because of the high electrical rates…
But over the years, things have changed, for my residential 300 Amp Service today, the rate is 5.2 cents per KWH; then they add the incidentals (Generation costs, the Transmission costs, and the Fuel costs…) and then the Taxes, special Riders, and the Tariffs and the Grand Total cost per KWH goes up to 15.7 cents.
All they did was shift the costs. Use to be the company that generated the power also delivered the power. Now they are separate companies ( at least on paper).
The only thing that really matters is the final cost. I could choose my electrical provider in Ohio and people would boast they are only paying 6.5 cents a Kw-hr… from the supplier… they were actually paying 5 cents more for the delivery fee and taxes for a total of 11.5 cents per Kw-hr.
Very true. Everything should be looked at in total cost- including car sales. I want out the door price not some shenanigans on the various pieces of the deal.
LoudThunder is paying 8.4c/kWH less than I am if we compare total cost on our respective bills. That adds up to a significant amount based on my usage. Not sure I could ever get down to 240 kWH in October. In fact, that would be some kind of record for any month. Probably have the electric company out here investigating to see how I was cheating their system
Last time I bought a new vehicle (2014 Highlander)…the salesman was fixated on my monthly payments even though I told him I’m paying cash.
All-too-many car sales people are fixated on monthly payments, simply because financing fees are a significant part of their profit structure. And, as you stated, some of them continue to harp on this topic even after you have told them that you are paying cash for the car.
I was very pleased that the dealership from which I bought my vehicle last year didn’t charge any “ADP”, and once I told the saleswoman that I would be paying cash, the subject of financing/leasing was never again mentioned. But, that was contrary to my experience at the first 3 dealers that I visited.
The only thing that concerns me with vehicle costs is the amount coming out of my pocket each month as that is how i construct my budget- on a monthly basis.
In sales I was taught to determine the interest and motivation of the prospect and focus on that. But when all you have is a pig to sell, it’s hard to convince people it’s a horse.
So if you can’t convince people of cost, features, Mother Nature, all that is left is force.
I have always negotiated the price of a vehicle without telling the salesperson my finance plan, as in finance by dealer, finance by own bank or credit union, or paying cash…
If the salesperson knows that you will be asking for finance through the dealer, the price is more flexible as the dealership gets an incentive fee (kickback…) from the financial institution. And the returned “fee” makes up for any extra discounts they offer to get you to buy the car. But do not believe for a second that the interest rates are anytihg to brag about… the Financial institution also has to make up for the “incentive Fee” they paid the dealership…
If they know they will not be financiering the car, the price is less flexible. But if they are working in the unknown arena of financing, they still have to be somewhat more flexible so they do not “scare” you away.
I just tell them that if I cannot afford the car, I am not going “to finance my life away just to get a car I cannot afford…”
And remember, walking out the door when offered a bad deal is your strongest negotiation tactic. You can always go back in a day or so and ask if they want to sell the car yet, or keep storing it?
We strictly lease my wife’s cars, so the only thing we’re concerned with is the monthly payment. What variables the dealer needs to play with to get the monthly payment where we need it to be is of no concern to me.
I have never boght a new car but have did that for the few used ones I have financed.