Alignment and Rack and Pinion

I agree with Bing that, at more than 200k miles, and with the presence of other “issues”, the OP should just be sure to rotate the tires every 5k miles. But, if he really wants to get an alignment, I suggest that he should avoid this place:


Less than clever mechanic…

Loosen the strut to knuckle bolts and shift it either up or down to correct. If that is not enough, a few strokes of a bastard-cut rat-tail file will oval one strut knuckle hole enough to bring camber into spec. Works for front or rear on this car. And this comes from an engineer who used to design this stuff for GM cars (me!) and has done it on cars of different brands.

But alignment is the least of your concerns. Replace both axle shafts, and replace the steering rack. Both need it and both will park your car faster than a slightly-out alignment.


Actually, higher tire pressures, particularly in the front/ steer tires, makes the steering looser and dartier for me.

This is part of the reason why GM speced such low pressures in the front tires of the new-at-the-time Corvair.

In most cars I’ve driven, lowering the tire pressure (not too far below door placard) always made the steering feel heavier and more on center.

Capris is the resident tire expert and most don’t question his advice. :grinning:

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I was just relating my personal experience when driving with tire pressures significantly higher than vehicle placard.

The steering becomes a little “too” direct for me, a little twitchy, and requisite of minor corrections. This is by the way the case with past cars I’ve driven, and with my current Honda Accord.

That would be about like me, who has replaced many struts and control arms etc etc, dispute Mustangman about how they are R&D’d… :man_facepalming:
And then use king pin technology against C6 SLA technology for handling… :laughing:

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I am about to replace all 8 front control arms on our 2014 Audi with 47,000 miles.

That should not happen but I read that it is common. At least the aftermarket makes an improved version… for $950 for the full kit. Audi OE prices would be about $3200 for the individual parts.

Stuff happens! :upside_down_face:

At least the shocks are OK… for now!

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That’s a lot of control arms! The OctoAudi…is totally in control…{after the repair} :grinning:

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Audi uses a complicated multi link design with 2 upper and 2 lower control arms with ball joints on each side… So 4 ball joints on each side. The body side bushings on the control arms have voids to soften them. Seems to make them fail early.

That and 10 years of Florida heat!

Sounds like something that would be attractive to someone involved in suspension engineering :wink:

So this is not so far of the mark, eh?




When the dual ball joint “virtual steering axis” designs first started coming out I got a chance to drive a few. With FWD and TWO virtual steering points (4 ball joints) you can place the steering axis right through the center of the tire contact patch and through the center of the wheel bearings.

Why would anyone do that? It removes virtually all torque steer in a powerful FWD car. With AWD (Quattro) it makes the front and rear follow each other. Steering, handling, power while rounding a corner… it all feels so natural with no drama when the turbo rolls on the boost!

But as we all know… with Euro cars, Mo’ parts, means mo’ money! :moneybag: :moneybag: :moneybag: