Hi Everyone, this is another part on an issue I had previously posted about. At the time of my previous posting at the beginning of this summer, the consensus from the community was to start looking into purchasing a new vehicle. I was able to find a newer used Toyota Highlander that has been running well. My 2002 Xterra had a P0301 code that my mechanic could not find the issue for after two repeated attempts. It has been running fine since the last time it gave me the active misfire in May. but in the last couple weeks it was having a difficult time starting and after using a trickle charger and a battery tester, the batter is reading dead. I also went to a local parts store and they also said the alternator is bad. On top of that, I’m fairly certain it eats a little oil although now that I’m not driving it as much I’m not noticing as big of a drop in the oil. I’m not a normal DIYer so I’m wondering if the car is worth fixing at my mechanic for the range of $650-$1,000 for the alternator and battery? Or with all the things that are wrong with it, if I should just sell it for 100-200$ for junk. My rationale for keeping it to this point is that it ran relatively fine up until this point, as a local/in-town only car with virtually everything working fine. Also, I may need to put another 6-800$ in one of my new Toyotas for used car fluid changes. I appreciate everyone’s opinion and fortunately I have replaced my two older cars this summer. I’m just wondering if it would be worth it at this point to keep it around as a third car for my wife and family. Thank you so much!
Those charging system tests are unreliable, especially when testing the alternator while using a failed battery. Replace the battery first.
A SUV with a dead battery for $100; sounds like a good deal. The auto salvage yards in my area resell vehicles that need minimal repairs.
Okay, thank you for the insight, Nevada_545. Do you think my mechanic could give me a more reliable second opinion if the battery is confirmed failed? I think he is pretty honest and just curious if it’s better than even putting in $150 to find out the battery is bad. The other overarching issue with the Xterra is that there is the P0301 engine misfire code but at this rate it hasn’t acted up since May and then 6 months before that if it runs decently I’m wondering if its better as a backup car for my others in case I have to take my other cars to the shop. I just was thinking about building a backup layer to my vehicle fleet, lol. Thank you for the insight, I greatly appreciate it.
Replace the battery before testing the alternator. If the alternator had failed, the battery would discharge as you drive, the engine would stall after 30 to 45 minutes with a completely discharged battery.
Many different types of battery chargers can be described as a “trickle charger”.
If this vehicle has been unused for several months, recharge the battery using a 10 amp battery charger for 8 to 12 hours. If you are using a 1.5 amp charger, connect it for at least 2 weeks.
A misfire and check engine light that occurs once every 6 months in a nuisance. Since this hasn’t developed into a more consistent problem, it is probably not worth repairing.
Let the Xterra go. I’m surprised you didn’t get rid of it when you got the Toyota.
The vehicle is 25 years old, and it’s proving unreliable. There’s no point in keeping an unreliable vehicle around for a “backup” if you can’t rely on it.
Sorry to be harsh, but it seems to me you’re making this a lot harder than it needs to be. Good luck.
Get rid of it.
I don’t take it harshly at all. Thank you for the advice!
Thank you Volvo-V70
Thank you Nevada_545 for all the in depth information. I was able to sell a pretty beat up 1999 Maxima for $600 a couple months ago. I was honest in my advertisement that it needed a new clutch etc. and somebody was still willing to buy it and work on it. With all these headaches and other people’s responses it now seems like the wise thing to do to go this route whether it’s the alternator or just the battery. Based on your comment about $100 being too good of a deal, do you think that I could get a few hundred more for it, like in the case of my 99 Maxima? Thank you again for all the wisdom.
As mentioned, the battery needs to be charged (near) fully to properly check an alternator, some alternators will go into a failsafe mode and stop charging once the battery voltage drops below X volts, so if the battery voltage is low the alternator might not charge…
You were able to get $600 for a junk car, why would you sell that Xterra for $100? A new battery is $120. I am surprised anyone wanted a Maxima with a worn out clutch.
An Xterra with no reverse for $1500;
A dead battery makes a vehicle “unreliable”? If you are concerned about the check engine light illuminating 5 months ago; no failure was found and it did not affect the reliability of the vehicle.
The OP shared several points about the vehicle having intermittent issues that led to the vehicle not starting or otherwise not being “available” when he needed it. It being 25 years old only adds to the uncertainty.
That’s my definition of “unreliable”. Yours may differ.
Nice job replacing your two older cars this summer! For this one, I’d split the decision into two questions. First, the quote: it covers an alternator and a battery, and Nevada_545 makes a fair point that a dead battery can make a charging test look worse than it is, so ask the shop to itemize both parts and re-test after the battery. Second, what you’d actually use it for. If it’s only an occasional in-town third car, the oil use and the earlier misfire code that never got solved are worth weighing. Compare the repair total against the modest amount you’d get selling it as-is. If you’d keep it several more years, a fixed car is probably worth more to your family than the junk offer.
Which means you will be flagged for Spam.
Thank you for the encouragement. That’s great perspective. The good news is my mechanic did confirm that the alternator isnt bad, it was just the battery and the positive connector. This gives me great perspective on how to weigh keeping or selling. I’ve thought it through and for it’s uncertain reliability and because I don’t think id be willing to drive it very long distances it would be better to sell while its working well. My mechanic also gave me the perspective that whenever he sees a car he wants to use as a backup car, it seems like a good idea at the time and then they end up sitting unused and the battery dies and he ends up selling them again. I came to terms that with two reliable cars and a closeby mechanic who can get me into the shop reasonably I think my transportation needs should be decently covered. Thank you again!
Hi everyone. Thank you again for all this great wisdom and insight. I have the good report that my mechanic confirmed that my alternator is still charging and my battery was just severely discharged. With everything mentioned here I’ve decided to attempt to sell the Xterra. Everything has been operating well despite its known engine misfire issues etc. My next question is I’m a little torn about how to position the listing so it gets sold. I wonder if there’s anyone willing to give their honest feedback about how I have it listed and the current price. I priced it high thinking someone would probably negotiate down. I have had it listed for two weeks and had no one ping me yet so I’m guessing I need to update. Again, it has been driving well, just the issues I’ve mentioned before and in the listing. I tried to be very honest. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1118799317183068About this vehicle Driven 236,000 miles Automatic transmission Exterior color: Green · Interior color: Grey Fuel type: Gasoline Fair condition Clean title This vehicle has no significant damage or problems. Seller’s description 2002 Nissan Xterra XE 4WD – 3.3L V6 Automatic Clean title Asking $3,295 OBO Selling my 2002 Nissan Xterra XE 4WD with approximately 236,000 miles. It has a clean title and has been a dependable family SUV. I’ve kept up with maintenance over the years. This Xterra has the 3.3L V6 engine, automatic transmission, four-wheel drive, and a trailer hitch. A great option for someone looking for an affordable 4WD SUV. Features and equipment: - 3.3L V6 engine - Automatic transmission - Four-wheel drive (4WD) - Trailer hitch - Working air conditioning and heat - Working power windows and other power features Maintenance and repairs: - Replacement transmission installed at approximately 160,000 miles - Timing belt and water pump replaced at approximately 190,000 miles - Tires installed at approximately 205,000 miles, currently measuring around 6/32" tread - Front brakes and rotors replaced at approximately 205,000 miles - Tires regularly rotated - Brand-new battery - Recent oil change - Alternator recently checked by mechanic and confirmed to be functioning properly Mechanical condition: The vehicle generally starts, runs, and drives well, including on multiple trips lasting several hours without noticeable performance problems. I want to be upfront about an intermittent P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire) trouble code. The check-engine light generally stays illuminated, although it has occasionally turned off on its own. Over approximately the past year, there have been two brief episodes of rough idling accompanied by a flashing check-engine light, occurring roughly six months apart. Outside of those isolated episodes, the vehicle has continued to operate normally during regular driving and longer trips. I made two attempts to have this issue diagnosed and addressed by James’s Garage, a reputable local mechanic. After researching the issue extensively, I also pursued the likely causes with the mechanic. He checked the main potential problem areas, including the ignition coils, fuel injectors, engine compression, and electrical components. His conclusion was that he could not identify the cause unless the vehicle happened to be acting up while he was testing it. Based on my own research, this appears to be a reasonable possibility with an intermittent issue. The P0301 code therefore remains unresolved, but based on the vehicle’s performance history, it otherwise runs and drives well. The underlying cause has not been fully diagnosed. I’m disclosing this so prospective buyers have an accurate understanding of the vehicle’s condition. Interior and exterior: The interior has normal age-related wear, stains, and dirt from family use on the original gray cloth upholstery. There is also a tear on the driver’s seat, but no other significant tears or holes. This is a 24-year-old vehicle with higher mileage, so please expect normal wear and imperfections. The lock on the drivers side is not operational and not able to be turned by the key, I have always used my remote key fob. The keys are a little corky but they have always worked for me. I’ve attached pictures to reflect the condition of all said items so you can know what to expect. I had recently taken it to James’s Garage to get the battery and alternator checked. I replaced with a new battery and the alternator passed well. I wanted to make sure in good faith that it is in suitable condition to be sold. Asking $3,295 or best reasonable offer. Located in the Albany, Oregon area. Feel free to message me with questions or to arrange a time to see it.