O.k., so here is the deal. I have an 06 Honda element with the k24 2.4 engine. The Honda manual calls for a valve adjustment around 110,000 miles. I am at 110,785, so I took it upon myself to adjust them myself.
My question is this; I had trouble being this is my first valve adjustment. I have them within spec, but I had to loosen and tighten them several times and I even torqued and re-torqued them 2-4 times. I properly torqued them to spec every time but because it took my a few tries, I am worried that I stretched or over stretched the adjustment screw. My boyfriend says that will be fine as long as I didn’t over torque them. He said almost all bolts can be torqued to the specified value numerous times, but cannot be over torqued. I am worried about the screw breaking or that it might break next time the valves need adjusting. Can these little screws be torqued more then a couple times? Am I worrying over nothing? I thought certain bolts can only be torqued one time…or something like that.
There are certain bolts that can only be torqued one time, but those aren’t them. As long as you got the valve clearance right, and you remembered to lock them back down, you’re good to go.
If you’re particularly worried, you can check your work here:
If you did what he did, you did good.
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I assume you mean by torque that you’re using a torque wrench. Speaking for myself and other mechanics who have done this countless times I can say that none of us have ever used a torque wrench on a job like this.
Snug by hand is fine.
The main thing is that you MUST be certain the clearance is correct. Too loose can beat a cam lobe to death and/or mushroom the valve stem. Too tight can lead to a burned valve head/valve seat which will then mean a valve job or head replacement if severe enough.
I did at least as close as I can. I adjusted the intakes to 0.009 and the exhaust a loose fitting 0.012 with very little drag. A 0.13 cannot fit unless I force it but the .12 is a tad loose and .11 has a good amount of play. I adjusted the intakes in that a .10 cannot fit unless I force it but the .009 is a little loose with a very slight amount of drag and .008 has a good amount of play.
Yes I used a torque wrench, I am looking at getting a digital torque adapter for future work. Thank you!
Is there a published torque value for the nuts on the valve adjusters? I have not found one for my 1999 Civic, so I’ve just tightened them by feel and rechecked the gap after.
The torque value for the valve cover hold-downs is listed in my Haynes.
Honda (Civic) specifies 14 ft-lb for valve adjuster nuts for their 2007 K20Z3 engine.
I’m not sure about yours but for my honda element and cr-v with the k24 Honda calls for 14 ft.lbs on the exhaust side and 10 ft.lbs on the intakes.
It sounds like you’ve done the job correctly. Worse case, if the screw/nut gives you trouble the next time, it can be replaced with a new one.
Note, you refer to torque values in pounds above, but that’s not the correct unit. foot pounds is the most common unit, but sometimes they are given in inch pounds. There’s a big difference between those two, so be sure to make sure you understand what unit the recommended torque is shown.
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Yeah I meant ftlbs, I should edit that I guess. Is it a big job to replace those screws and nuts? I assume one would have to remove the camshafts and everything unless the valve and spring could be compressed enough to get the screw out.
I don’t know what’s involved. It may require machine shop help. But it can definitely be done. It’s not a show stopper in other words.
I always thought they just unscrewed out from the top, but I’ve never had to do it.
Are the jam nuts different sizes between intake and exhaust?
What’s up with the 4 ft/lbs torque difference. I bought a 10mm Jam Nut Valve Adjusting Tool to to do the job on a 08 CRV. I’m now wondering if I also need a 12mm Jam Nut Valve Adjusting Tool.