That upper one is the one I replaced. And replaced!
Congrats on sticking with it, & getting your new purchase purring like a kitten. Best of luck on the follow up jobs. Thanks for taking time to post the result, other people with similar problems searching here will likely gain some clues to help them too.
The coil is pretty resilient to damage as it is basically just a coil of wire but the ICM is not so tough. Pulling the plug wire most likely resulted in an excessively high voltage pulse in the primary winding which damaged the ICM. Thatās my best guess anyways. Drive on.
I figured the same thing. but the ICM actually tested exactly in spec on
and off the vehicle. of course so did the coil however on this car thereās
a weird spring that hooks the coil to the distributor cap - which was all
bent up the cap was funny the wires were bad corrosion excetera somewhere
and somehow along the line my pulling that plug wire off blew something up.
New dizzy parts, & cap got me running. New plug wires - even better!
Testing within specs is one thing, but the component has to do more than test okay. It has to do its job
Iāve had numerous coils where the primary and secondary resistance tested perfect, yet the coil had a visible crack. Replacing the visibly damaged coil resolved the no-start, due to no spark.
A coil contains some really tiny wires and they could be affected just by the jiggling of the starter motor or the engine running, so a could might bench test ok, but wouldnāt work installed in the car.
Agree 100%
Honda calls it a-arms wishbones. Ala double wishbone suspension. Some people say control arm, some say a-arm. GM lower control arms are shaped like āLāsā. The Hondas lower arms are single bars, With a diagonal stiffener bar or strut rod. Some cars have multi link upper arm setups.
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Rock Auto calls it an Upper Control Arm. itās mounted kind ofā¦ around the
upper part of the strut/tower.
looking for a replacement optionthat doesnāt involve. Removing struts