Acceleration Issue&Oil Pressure warning

Maintenance/Repairs
1

Hello everyone

its me on a new day with problems of course.

Civic EU Sedan 1.8 R18a2, stickshift, 80k miles from 2010. Driven in mixed cycles of city (sometimes heavy traffic) and short trips and half intercity/highway driving.

I fixed many stuff with this piece of crab (sorry) and put it on sale as I hate it so much however she loves to surprise me:

Two things:

Nr 1: in January after standard service (oil, filters) few weeks later orange check oil pressure light came up. I stopped checked the level and it was at max. Started the car, warning gone, ran OBD from bluetooth, no codes.

Today it came up again(before that first orange warning - exclamation mark with triangle came up and disappeared after shutting the car off), while I was so close to home, stopped checked the oil, again max level.

nr2: long years, especially while going uphill (sometimes) it can be first start at lights or while driving on a certain gear (especially if you push the pedal a bit strong) Rpm goes up for example from 3000 to 3500 but wont go further ( max to 3500-400) and speed wont increase in parallel, after 2-3 seconds all goes back to normal. It happens sometimes on straight road but in most cases while driving uphill.

This happened very rarely but last 3 weeks its gone mad. It happens a lot. But at the same time during same driving cycles, it drives like beast, you kick it on 3rd, 4th, 5th it accelerates many times without issue and like a monster, goes up to 90-100 mph without hesitation

Car also has the problem with jerky acceleration if you floor the pedal a bit around 2-3k rpm on every gear.

I am so sick and tired of it really, normally i ignore all these but i dont want to ignore oil pressure warning to avoid any engine damage.. And also while I want to sell, if I can i want to fix it a bit and then sell.

What I have done before you ask (these are only engine related, i have done so many other stuff)

  • around 15k miles before, in Honda adjusted the valve clearances.

  • around same time, replaced the sparks.

  • swapped ignition coils with another honda to check, still same problems.

  • Removed the throttle a year ago, and gave it a good clean.

  • upstream o2 sensor replaced, with original Denso.

  • Cleaned EGR no avail, bought a used one, no changes.

  • Removed battery few times and idle relearn

  • maf, map cleaned (also lately)

  • pcv valve replaced

I think what I didnt touch are spool valve, downstream o2 sensor and cat

I left it lately to my mechanic but he couldnt find anything weird but I doubt that he checked anything with CAT.

Two usual suspects i have are clogged cat as the acceleration issue happens generally while driving uphill or clutch going bad.

I have done some additional tests: on 3rd and 4th gear, release the pedal and car stalls. Ond 2nd without handbrake slowly releasing clutch pedal, lots of vibration but car moved at the end slowly. Gears change fine, sometimes having problem putting into one but rest go in/out well.

There is also this weird noise from left side of the engine somewhere, so its not the belt/chain - not sure what it is it did not exist before, it sounds like saul goodman`s suzuki esteem :slight_smile:

What do you think?

2

The oil light issue might mean the sensor failed or the oil pump isn’t functioning.

3

What are you calling a spool valve???

4

Vtec solenoid valve

5

Part 1 do you mean a red oil pressure light or an orange check oil level light?? Big difference…
Either one sounds like a failing sensor…

.

Part 2 sounds like your clutch is slipping, if I am understanding your description…

.

Part 3 possible combo of slipping clutch and engine/trans mount weak or broken…

.

Part 4 You can remove the serp belt and start the car up to confirm if noise is gone or still there… Noises can travel sometimes… water pump, pulley/tensioner bearing, alt bearing, slipping belt, etc..

It could also be a pilot bearing (or possible throw out bearing), either one-replace both with new clutch kit…

6

Part 1 - yellow, checked from internet it means low oil level not oil pressure. It might be the sensor which is in the oil pan. Oil level is close to max. I will change the sensor during next oil change.

Part 2- i was in between clutch and catalyst but as I dont know how they drove before me and I also was in traffic half of the life it had with me, it is probably still at 80k miles.

Part 4- it is actually coming from the side where you have the transmission so it might be the throw out bearing,

Thank you friend

7

A catalytic converter kill power consistently, Not cause RPM to rise independently of speed… Without being able to test drive it, still thinking it is a clutch failing… About any decent drive train mechanic can confirm a failing clutch in a short test drive…

This has nothing to do with your vehicle other than explaining that noise can sometimes travel…
I have seen many belt tensioners/pulleys replaced when it was the torque converter (front pump) bushing or a camshaft synchronizer actual making the noise from the other side of the engine, again sometimes noises can travel and fool you if not carful… But a decent chance it is the pilot bearing, possible throw out bearing, but it is more likely to make noise with the clutch depressed…

You don’t have to repair/replace the clutch, just drop the sale price of the car to cover the clutch replacement but inform the failure to the new buyer beforehand… Mechanics Special…

8

for Part 4 - the sound disappears when you start to push the pedal down. I had my wife sitting in the driver seat and pressing the pedal while I was listening from engine bay. When she slightly starts to touch the pedal noise disappears. Hopefully it is not input shaft bearing

Prefer to fix it as people tend to avoid buying cars with these kind of issues around here or trying to take price too much down.

Part 2- drove with my mechanic yesterday his view is that the clutch is on its way out as rpm increases while speed stays as it is when you floor it.. I have ordered clutch kit and just in case also pilot bearing as i see its quite cheap however I couldnt find the original one.

9

Clutch kit should come with the the Pilot bearing, Throw out bearing, Clutch disc, Pressure plate and line up tool, meaning everything but fluid and the Flywheel… Some come with lube also…

A lot of labor (kinda) to replace the clutch, don’t cheap out on parts and have to pay twice.. Pay once, cry once… lol

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10

Since you had a mechanic drive the car, what did he say about the noise from Part 4???

11

i have checked kits different brands, none has neither line up tool nor the pilot bearing
(i am in eastern Europe) :slight_smile: 3 pieces only in the kit :slight_smile: plate, disc and throwout bearing. I was checkin Exedy and LUK (dont know if you have LUK in the US but very well recommended) mechanic recommended to go for LUK, both on same price so I dont mind really.

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As for pilot bearing :slight_smile: I cant find OEM, I will ask the Honda dealer here if they have it.

12

Rock Auto shows the LUC with the line up tool, and states it comes with Pilot bearing although not in the Pic…

But I know things are/can be different across the pond, soo there’s that…

13

i d be happy to see them in the pack :smiley: The description on the webpage i bought do not cover them but you never know :slight_smile:

For pilot, I was able to find only Koyo brand that fits, but never heard of it

14

The last clutch I replaced was on my 1998 Pathfinder. They wouldn’t warranty the parts unless I had my flywheel resurfaced. The receipt was needed to send in with the warranty paperwork for the pressure plate and clutch. And Nissan calls their throw out bearing a Thrust bearing - I have no idea why.

15

Because, that’s what it is.

A thrust bearing is a type of rotary bearing designed to support axial loads, which are forces acting parallel to the shaft. They are commonly used in applications like automotive transmissions, pumps, and turbines to ensure smooth operation and stability.

Tester

16

ah yes sorry forgot to mention. Just following the location and hearing the noise, his best guess was Throwout bearing.

For the oil warning (as you said) he said it means low oil level not oil pressure so its most probably the sensor in the oil pan.

17

Just to add to Tester’s correct reply;

A throw out bearing, the common name, describes what it does, it “throws out” or disengages the clutch, it gets pushed along the input shaft when you depress the clutch pedal and applies force to the pressure plate fingers…

A thrust bearing is it’s engineering term, and describes how it works, it handles the axial load along a shaft…

In other words, every throw out bearing is a thrust bearing, but not every thrust bearing is a throw out bearing…

18

Go with Luk . . . I’ve used it and remember it as being good quality

19

And now I know. This is the difference between professional mechanics (Tester and davesmopar) and backyard mechanics like me.

20

Coming back to the topic, mechanic was going to change the clutch today however of course, flywheel is not in good condition either. I have never replaced clutch before in 20 years but I assume the shiny gray area (rcircled) should be straight, you can see the uneven surface. Its interesting actually, feels like perfectly drawn by someone :slight_smile:

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A rookie mistake, I assume I was supposed to order the flywheel as well to be on safe side, mechanic and I have been asking around the area if anyone has flywheel for my car but no shop has it. A few said that they find from their suppliers but we need to wait 3-4 working days.

As the car is already on the lift, I am in foggy situation, mechanic has to do other work so we need to finish the job with the old flywheel. I am looking around on the web to see if I can find a used one. so far only was able to find this, will go see it in the morning. if this doesnt work, 2nd time will need to take all out…I think I ll go with the second option

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