I have a 2000 Mercury Cougar with about 145k miles.
Today I was driving and when I slowed down to come to a stop it acted as if it wanted to cut off by sputtering. As I got down to about 5-10mph the engine shut off (the radio and everything else was still running) I noticed that as I was slowing down right before it shut off, the RPM was going very low, almost down to zero.
I do have check engine, and low coolant level lights on.
For the check engine there are a few codes.
Something with the catalytic convertor
02 Sensors
Transmission slippage
I think there was something else but I forgot.
I do need new motor mounts.
The oil light comes only when I am idle and after driving for a good 5-10min. I changed my oil about a month and a half ago though.
The only time there is issues is upon stopping. Driving and acceleration is fine.
Could be something simple, but from what you say this engine may just be nearing the end of its useful life and need rebuilding or replacment. hmmm … to start out, I think I’d probably do a compression check after-- like dB above says – the oil pressure test.
Autozone, Pep Boys will most likely read your codes for free
However, they will NOT check your oil pressure for free
But, as we’ve said, the oil pressure measurement has absolute priority
BTW . . . what kind of driving do you do? Short trips? How long between oil changes? How many miles between oil changes? Do you check your oil level at least every few weeks? What viscosity are you using?
I drive monday-thursday about 15min to and from my college. And then friday-sunday about 15min to and from work. Occasionally I may go to stores and friends house…but no more than 20-30min drives to the location.
I bought this car from someone I believe it was september sometime. I got the oil changed in october.
Other than agreeing about checking the oil pressure I might add this.
It could be that the oil light is flickering on due to the idle RPMs dropping too low. Maybe the idle is dropping too low because of a possible vacuum leak or Idle Air Control valve issue.
A vacuum leak could also possibly cause some of those codes you’re referring to.
Depending upon the results of the oil pressure test and considering the 145k miles on the car, maybe the weight of the engine oil needs to be stepped up to something a bit heavier if O or 5W was used during the oil change.
I’m not a fan of using aerosols for vacuum leak checks although it can work to some extent. My preference is the use of a vacuum gauge.
I do not know how the vacuum system on a 2000 Cougar is laid out but I would strongly imagine that there are vacuum pods inside the dash that control some functions of the climate controls along with the possibility of a leak inside of the power brake booster. A gauge can easily determine if a leak exists in one of those out of sight places.
A vacuum test can be done easily by any shop or DIYer but at this point I would agree with others about having the oil pressure test done first.
If the oil pressure is too low then the causes for that could be:
Worn crankshaft bearings.
Sludged oil pickup screen and/or oil galleys.
Worn camshaft saddles on the cylinder head.
Or all of the above.