OK, I’ll admit it, my wife bullied me into buying this GM piece of … During the bi-monthly problems last month the Check Engine light came on. Just out of pure stubborness I have firmly decreed that I will NOT put anymore money into this piece of … (until I’m bullied again). As I was driving this peice of … downtown to pay off a crack-whore to steal it, I noticed that the tach fluctuated while the cruiz control was engaged at 35 MPH. Does anyone have enough experience with an Olds POS to advise me that something like the idle position sensor is bad?
Why was the cruise engaged at 35 mph. Why bother ?
Why would you pay a crack whore to steal it? Why not pay a car thief? Why not just let them steal it for free? Why not just turn on the cruise and let it drive off a cliff ?
Why not just bully your wife into getting rid of it for something Japanese and more reliable?
It may be a bad signal from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). The wires to/from the VSS, engine computer, cruise control may be faulty, or have faulty connections.
Rather than ask us, ask your car. That CEL (check engine light) is just a kid in class waving her hand trying to get you attention because she has the answer. You need to have the codes read. Some places will read them for FREE. Try Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. Get the exact code (like P0123) not just their translation into English and post it back here.
Regarding warning lights:
if the coolant temp light comes on, shut off the engine ASAP
if the oil warning light comes on, shut off the engine ASAP
if a FLASHING MIL/CEL comes on, shut off the engine ASAP
ASAP means driving to the berm of the highway right now and not waiting for the next exit.
But if the MIL/CEL is not flashing, then it’s not an urgent indicator.
I should add that good cars are usually those that have had proper maintenance and bad cars are usually those that have been abused. I believe you will find that those cars with the best repair records are purchased by people who want a trouble free car and most understand that proper maintenance is part of the game. Those with poor reliability records are generally ppurchased by people looking for something cheap, sharp looks etc. and they tend not to provide proper maintenance nor drive with care.
The tach can flutter due to gear changes with cruise on or be numerous other things. Did you actually feel it or just see the gauge moving about?
Get the CEL codes checked/written down at an autoparts store and don’t bother asking for diagnosis, they will suggest a list of parts to throw at the problem.