The problem began with the battery going down slowly while the car sat. Then the blower motor wouldn’t shut off, even with the key turned off. With the blower motor disconnected, the battery no longer discharges. I bought and installed a (used) climate control panel but the problem persists. I’m not sure where to go from here.
Look and see if you have a blower motor variable resistor, could be the culprit.
In the under hood fuse/relay box, remove fuse 3, 30 amp and see if the blower motor stops operating.
This fuse is hot all the time and supplies power to the contacts for high speed blower motor relay.
If removing this fuse prevents the blower motor from operating, replace the high speed blower motor relay.
How long have you owned car? Does it have an aftermarket sound system installed? Did you install it?
Often young people butcher the wiring harness when installing aftermarket equipment and cause all forms of ghosts. Electrical systems can be complicated.
The blower control module has failed. It can be found in the engine compartment near the blower motor.
Thanks! Removing the fuse prevented the motor from operating. Where can I find the “high speed blower motor relay”?
Thanks for the reply. No, everything is original.
Yep, its the blower control module as stated. Had that on my Olds Aurora. I think I paid $25 at the junk yard for a replacement. Its under the dash though by the HVAC controller. Buy the replacement and you’ll know what to look for. Or just keep pulling the fuse. Mine was intermittent for a while, then went to full term blower on whether the car was shut off or not.
Great picture but there is nothing in that slot. I took a picture but have to figure out how to attach it.
The diagram is for manual A/C, if your car has automatic temperature control with dual zone there is no high speed relay.
It does have automatic temperature control with dual zone.
Disconnect the blower control module, it is 8" to 12" below that relay box. Follow the wiring in the diagram shown as “blower resistor” to the module, your connectors are a little different.
My 95 Olds was under the dash but it seems that some are in the engine compartment so not sure where it is but listen to Nevada. Maybe this will help.
I don’t see anything down there but a piece of flat insulation about 14 X 16 inches. Don’t know what’s behind it.
When they say “hidden”, they mean hidden real good. What do you think a qualified auto electric shop would charge to make the repair?
Well if you don’t go to the junk yard the parts are about $100 so can’t believe you’d get out of the shop for much less than $200. Or DIY for under $50 with used parts including a couple bucks for some mirrors at the dollar store.
Thanks for all the replies. I finally found the resistor. Now all I need to know is if there is some way to test it before spending a lot of money for a new one only to find out that wasn’t the problem.