92 Camry headlights

toyota

#1

Here we go again

I have WAY to much time on my hands

The DING DING DING when the key is in the ingition has always drobe me nuts…so in the past i just find the relay?? or whatever it is and unplug it…well i found it in this car. A blue box with a 4 wire plug in the top. I couldnt get it unplugged so i cut the wires…ding ding still dings. I thought maybe i was in trouble then. So i start busting the cover off the blue box and got a spark (there is a circuit board in there) . Now im thinking i just dug a deeper hole. So i see if the car starts …it does. Everything seems to work except the headlights. when i pull the lever back they come on but wont when i turn the switch for normal operation so i know the bulbs are good. I did find a blown fuse for the dome light but all other fuses are good. The headlight relay looks good but how do i really know without replacing it


#2

Often those alarm boxes are wired so if you remove them, something else doesn’t work. It is to prevent the owner from removing it. Often what they do is pass the power or ground for other functions through the box. If you can get a schematic, you can probably see what has happened, and how to remove the box without the headlight problem.


#3

Ive removed every noise box to date… well almost every

I got it. I was not easy. Pulled dash panel off and got the blue thingy out so i could pull the plug i busted the wires off …did some figuring what wire went where. It was small wire. Found more wire that was to big and downsized it by cutting half the strands and proceeded to solder it back together with oversize solder but it worked

Thanks


#4

Glad you got it all to work without all that buzzing! I hate that buzzing too. Esp in the AM, when I start and back the car out the driveway, I have to get out of the car to close the gate, so I have to put up w/ all that buzzing noise b/c I don’t want to put on seatbelts just to back out the driveway. I’ve lived with it, but was thinking I might take the box apart and just unsolder the speaker.


#5

Huh. When I ordered my 74 Cutlass, I ordered the guage package. That meant that the seat belt light couldn’t be in the instrument panel because that’s where one of the guages were. Instead they mounted a seatbelt light on top of the dash. So anytime you sat on the seat of that vintage, the buzzer would go off constantly and the red light on the dash would be on. You’d have to fasten the seat belt behind you to get it to go out. Of course I always used my belt anyway, but it was irritating. I thought you could just shoot the voice box to get rid of it but never tried.


#6

The 92 camry has a 2 dimensional buzzer. Seat belt and Key in ignition
It was the Key in ignition that drove me nuts

Yeah…in a 74 ya can just break out the 44 Mag but the camry is not so simple

The good ol days are gone


#7

I thought i did pretty good for an amateur with the wrong tools


#8

hmmm maybe i should have looked at that pic blown up before i put it back together. Looks like green might be touching white…maybe thats why when i turn parking lights on headlights and all come on…but other than that everything works the way its supposed to


#9

If it ain’t broke, keep fixing it. Red Green


#10

Copy that

Supposedly back to work tomorrow…maybe the madness will end

Gotta love Red Green…


#11

There is a two pin connector coming off the ignition lock housing you could have unplugged to stop the key in chime.

George, there should be a two pin connector under the drivers seat from the buckle switch that you can make a permenant closed circuit to stop the seat belt warning.

Disabling the chime completely will silence other warning features that you may want.


#12

Excellent idea @Nevada_545 … I presume the car simply thinks the seat belt is always buckled so no need to chime. First rate! Yes, like you say I don’t want to disable all of 'em. There are two alarms I like, the one if you open the door w/the key in the ignition, and the one if you open the door with the headlights on. Those have saved my bacon more than once.

@badbearing … you likely already know this, but in your photo some of those appear to be cold solder joints and may open and cause you grief at some point in the future. I guess the best plan is just to remember if something in the electrical system stops working, that’s the first place to check.


#13

Affirmative. I spread the wire (clamps)? and shoved the wire down inside


#14

then wrapped it with electric tape
then Gorilla tape

Red Green