It was to the point where I’d have to bang on the starter every few daysto get it to start so I figured it was time to replace it. Went to the auto parts store and when I went to leave w new starter in hand it won’t start at all. Not even banging on it will get it to start. Roll start it and get it home, switch out starters, still won’t start, so I jump it and let it charge for a bit, then drive it around for awhile. On my way back home, lost power at a stop sign but was rolling so I dropped it in first and managed to get it home. So I’m thinking I fouled something taking too long to switch out starters? Not keeping a charge now?
It sounds like you were able to get it started with a jump. If that is the case you need to check your battery and alternator. This might not be a starter problem.
But it was - had to bang on it to get it started before. So I assumed it was just that. Is there anything that could happen as a result of running it too long w a bad starter? Would it drain anything?
Sometimes it’s a bad ground that causes starting problems. Check the engine to body ground even though it is a lot better than the one on a 1975, 74 and 79 Corolla. Oh 4WD! Oh pickup! It may be between the rocker cover to the firewall. If so, disconnect it and scrape it as well as whatever other stuff is connected to the firewall end. It used to be a common problem on a Toyota, not so much these days. Good metal to metal contact is needed.
Check the battery voltage. If it is not at least 12.5, there may be a bad ground that prevents full charging (72 Cadillac with burned ground strap, by exhaust pipe.)
Your rebuilt starter may be bad too. Does the ignition switch seem to be worn out? I had a bad one on a 87 Mazda.
Starters new. What wires do I need to check?
Have you had the new starter checked? SOmetimes, even though they should check them, a bad one slips through. If the starter bench-tests fine, then you need to be concerned for your wiring.
Check the motor ground first. The negative cable from the battery should go to the engine to ground first, then the chassis. I’ve seen some of these models that ground to the chassis first, and have ground issues because of this.
Also, check the connections for the positive cable. They should be clean, shiny, and no visible cracks.
It would be a good idea to clean the battery connections with a battery post cleaning brush for this kind of trouble and also check the cables for internal corrosion. You may have a bad cable. You should also check the small wire coming from the ignition to make sure that voltage is getting to the solenoid when the key is turned to START.
I agree with the majority here . . . clean all connections you can get your hands on. Sounds like you had a bad connection (dirty contact) somewhere that responded to you starter whacking. Not a difficult job, just time extensive and dirty. I had the same problem with my old '79 Dodge pickup but got a battery, not a starter. Still had difficult starting, so I cleaned everything up and it started fantastic. This truck is a little old and contacts can get corroded and dirty over the years. Worth your time. Rocketman
Thanks! I’ll check all these. I haven’t had the truck for very long. Had just 105k on it when I bought it so I figured stuff like this would start happening. Lots miles left in her, I just need to get better at diagnosing
Did you replace the starter [b]SOLENOID[/B]?
It sounds like that was the problem all along.
Where is it?? I was thinking it’d be something like this. All the connections are good…
Mounted at the bottom of th block next to the starter?
The wire that connects the engine block to the firewall/body/fender. It could be anywhere back there, even on the transmission bellhousing.
Just follow the main battery lead. It will be tied to the solenoid and then to the starter.
The solenoid is built into the starter housing. It can be rebuilt independent of the starter, but is considered to be a part of the starter unit.