I have a 60’ Chevy Apache w/ a 6 cyl. It runs for about 2-3 miles then sputters to a dead orange heap. I’ve replaced the carb, insulated the fuel lines (thought it may be vapor locking), replaced fuel filter, put in new spark plugs, wires, roter, distributor cap, points, condenser, and new coil. Same problem. It is not loosing fuel to the carb, I did determine that. Thanks for the advice.
Joe
You changed the carb OK how long does it take before the chock opens . let the truck seat and warm up after a few minutes push down gas pedal
and check to see if chock is open. if the engine quits when the chick opens you have a vacuum leak. try this hold a rag over carb block off the 3/4 of venture start again if it runs take rag away and if it quits you founds the problem. leaks will be gasket under carb, intake gasket, or a vacuum line. If I remember wright check in the manifold pipe some of the older cars has metal gate that opens when the exhaust pipe gets hot if it is not working it could hold back exhaust gas and this might shut down engine because driving you push more exhaust out it would be like shuting off the tail pipe . one of best cars I had was a new 1960 conv 348 two four,s three on the tree.
Well, the choke is a manual choke and does not automatically close (or open). I’ll try your rag over carb suggestion and look for a vacuum leak. It does not look like there is a metal gate on this old girl. Thanks again,
Joe and the Apache
My thoughts were the ignition condenser and since this was replaced that’s obviously a no-go.
You have fuel when this happens and since all of the ignition stuff has been replaced, what about the electrical part of the ignition switch?
This could be verified with a test light by probing the positive side of the coil terminal when it quits or by running a jumper wire with a couple of alligator clips between the battery positive and the coil positive terminal when it quits. If it starts and runs then you’ll know the switch is at fault.
You’ve determined that you are getting fuel to the carburetor and it sounds like you’ve replaced every ignition part. It doesn’t sound like an ignition problem because you say that it “sputters” to a dead orange heap. I’m wondering if it could be a restriction in the exhaust system. You might get a portable vacuum gauge and connect it to an intake port on the manifold. Find out what is an acceptable reading–if the vacuum reading is low when the engine is running, this is one indicator of a plugged exhaust system.
A low vacuum gauge reading could also be caused by extremely retarded timing. You can set the timing with a vacuum gauge by advancing the timing to a point where one step back causes the vacuum to fall, but further advancement doesn’t cause the vacuum reading to rise.
If you don’t have access to a vacuum gauge, your truck may be just old enough to have vacuum wipers. If your fuel pump has a vacuum booster section, bypass that and hook the wipers directly to the intake manifold port. If, at idle, the wipers move extremely slowly, but didn’t when they were hooked up through the vacuum booster section of the fuel pump, this is an indicator of low vacuum. However, you can probably purchase a vacuum gauge for $10-15 at an auto parts store.
Try what ok4450 suggests first before you purchase the vacuum gauge. He is a real mechanic and I’m just an old geezer who in my younger days had to keep my old cars going on a limited budget, and these cars were older than your 1960 Chevrolet Apache pickup truck.
If you are sure it is not a fuel issue and have checked the fuel pump, sock filter etc., and its not flooding out, check the wires for opens or shorts. A bad connection, wire broken inside the insulation, ignition switch, etc. would be about all that is left.
Thanks for all the great advice. I’ll try one at a time and see where I get. Drive on!
Joe and the Apache.
Good Luck. Remember this: anyone with enough change to buy a postage stamp can secure a loan to buy a BMW. However, very few people have the privilege of driving a 1960 Apache pick-up truck. Keep it running.
Look for another condenser on the outside of the distributor, or on the coil. If you have one, disconnect it. I don’t know if they had them back then. Use a jumper wire to the distributor so you can rule out the rest of the circuit. Mahe sure the engine is grounded to the frame or body. If the wire is missing, it could cause strange things to happen. Usually not the kind of problem you are having. our engine could be seized. All it has to do is warm up and then refuse to turn. That’s it for my ideas. I would wonder if you had any tappet clearance.