I will have to buy a 24 volt jump pack to start the new cars.
Of course not, but have you taken a few minutes to see what they actually fit?? Industrial diesel engines and heavy-duty trucksā¦ Did you think they use a rope to pull start them?? lol
I will through you another one to think aboutā¦ A lot of drag race vehicles use 16V batteryās and most run twins in parallel, they do not use alternators to save weight, or more or less to move the weight over the back wheels to transfer weight better (weight bias), My old MSD 6AL ignition system will run on 16Voltsā¦ The batteryās are charged between roundsā¦
Mine had a long cable going from neg to neg, and another long cable going from positive to positive. So that the battery on the passenger side, had to have the longer post bolts to accommodate the double connection. Getting old but coming back. Used to change out the posts with new ones about every year. Probably still have a couple laying around. So that to me says it was 12 volts, whether series or para. I get confused which is which.
So that would be about 1400 cca. That still wasnāt enough at scout camp when it got diwn to 20 below. Only one time though.
As usual, we have drifted away from the original post.
For the OP, if mine, I would get the large battery replaced in the very near future.
As far as dual batteries, in the 60s, when I was a pump jockey, a woman came in with a VW Beetle. She asked me to check the electrolyte (water) level in the battery. I lifted the rear seat cushion, saw two batteries connected with a jumper cable, I gave her a quizzical look, she said āit always startsā.
@Nevada_545 already covered that topic, didnāt he?
Where??? ā¦ ā¦
I thought he had already covered that topic. If not, I apologize for your inconvenience. I donāt claim to know what all those 24 volt starter motors are used for, only that they clearly are for sale for something. Iām quite surprised 12 volt batteries are connected in parallel by design in many vehicles apparently , seems very dangerous. I guess the worry with connecting them in series is that somebody might install a replacement 12 volt starter without knowing that a 24 volt is required, which would also be very dangerous. If a bigger battery is required, have to wonder why they donāt just fit a bigger battery, rather than two smaller ones in parallel? Maybe a single bigger battery just has no place where it will fit.
As I already stated industrial and Heavy Duty trucks run 24V batterys, and some/a lot/maybe all even run 2-4 24V batterys in parallel, every medium duty motor home I have ever worked on will run 2-4 12V batterysā¦ As you can imagine, just as all the heavy duty and industrial engines are much bigger, so are the startersā¦ Really doubt anybody will mix up a 12v with a 24V starter, mainly due to the size differenceā¦ And a 24V battery is typically bigger than a 12V battery just because of cell countā¦
Donāt know how many or what voltage our electric fork lift was but I about had a stroke at the cost of replacing them. Well over $1000 20 years ago.
Considering that was nearly 60 years ago, I doubt she is still driving that Beetle.
I rented a Nissan Rogue-like thing with a diesel engine in Ireland a few years ago. It was brand new (10 miles) and it was the first car I have ever driven that shut off and restarted instead of idling at stops. It was awful in stop and go heavy city traffic, constantly stopping and starting and doing it with plenty of shaking, stuttering and shuddering. I could not figure out how to turn it off and there was no manual in the car to refer to. After three days the battery quit. It car wouldnāt hold a charge long enough to stay running with a jumpstart. The replacement car was older, also a diesel, but no auto stop/start.
That just sounds like poor mount designs (or defects in the manufacture of the mounts). Iāve driven quite a few hybrids, most (all) of which will shut down the ICE even while driving (and certainly at stops). They were all very smooth. (Maybe the diesel matters?) In my '03 Prius right now (the one Iāve got the most experience with), these days Iām getting some occasional shudder, but the mounts are all original. Pretty sure Iāll be looking for a new dog-bone mount for it soon.
Itās a shame that nobody at the rental agency had the courtesy to explain it to you. The āuniversalā symbol for auto stop/start looks like thisā¦
ā¦ but without an explanation, I can understand how one might be unable to figure out how to disable it.
Hello I am back. Today is 10/11/2024 and the te issue came back up again. Not starting and jumping it. This time I did take it to a mechanic and they ran the test and only thing was the main battery has 4 volts? And it suppose to be 12. They recommended to change both batteries ( big and small (aux)) but since we did that a few months ago only change the main battery . Got it and now works great. But now the rear view camera does not come on. They ran another test and canāt find anything. They are recommending to get the aux battery change. I went to the autozone where it was purchase and the battery is out of warranty . So now not sure that do do.
Im pretty sure you need a better mechanic!
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Both batteries have to be in good condition & fully charged in order for all of the carās function to have a chance of working. Maybe your new-ish aux battery is in good condition , but isnāt fully charged. Ask your shop techs if they are able charge it using their shop battery charger. I wouldnāt suspect the aux battery would be involved with the rear view camera, but such a relationship is possible, varies car to car.
What exactly are the shop techs recommending? I wouldnāt expect a shop tech to recommend to replace a new-ish battery without first charging & testing it
Another possibility is the carās computers require some sort of re-initialization procedure after battery replacement.
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Maybe they DID test it and their diagnostic equipment made it clear the new(ish) battery was unrecoverable garbage