2017 Subaru Legacy - Engine stmbles

Not that it really matters but you do not have reply to each person as your posts are seen by everyone . Also it may not cause problems but it might be best to not have personal info on your posts such as email and where you are employed.

Why do you have such poor faith in the dealership? And, if your lack of faith is reasonable, why not go to a different dealer?

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This is by far the better dealer in the area and it’s the one that sold me the car!

So they are good enough to sell you a car but not good enough to diagnose/repair it?

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I would rule out the crankshaft position sensor. When they go bad, they affect the running as well as the starting. You would experience the engine shutting down for no reason at random times before it fails completely.

I’m still favoring an air bubble around the ECT sensor. Do you have to add coolant on occasion? If you do, have the dealer add a bottle of Subaru Cooling System Conditioner and bleed the system.

To make sure there’s fuel at the engine, try turning the key On and Off several times. Each time it’s On the fuel pump should run for a second or two - you may hear it. That gets fuel and fuel pressure right up to the injectors. Then turn the key all the way to Start. Does that cure the crank-but-not-start problem?

It’s a push button start.

Ok, good feedback on the Crankshaft Position Sensor!
What’s an ECT Sensor?
Nothing unusual in regards to having to add coolant just a time or two in the summer.

…that was my experience anyway. It can cause no-start or poor running especially when it is hot, from engine heat and lack of ventilation under the hood. Once it cools down it’s OK, for a while anyway. And while the car is moving, the underhood temps are lower, and it works OK. But it is not reliable and one day it will simply quit, your engine will have no spark, and it will stop running or fail to start.

I first noticed poor running, barely running, on a hot summer day at a stop light in traffic in a fully warmed up 1979 Toyota. I lucked out and the problem cleared up. Months later it failed to start after I shopped at a parts place. They also had service bays and could push it in. They diagnosed no spark and a bad pickup coil inside the distributor. It was a Sunday and I found the part in town and took it to them and they fixed it. Lucky again - I had over 300 miles to drive to get back to work on Monday.

On those old Toyotas the part was called a pickup coil or signal generator. It basically told the distributor and igniter exactly when to fire a spark. On modern cars, the analogous part is the crankshaft position sensor.

ECT = engine coolant temperature

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