If the key is near the car ,and an accessory is used,say a window going down,then the electronics show no life and the car will not start,but if jumped it starts, and the battery checks good.
Possible cause but if not, you should still take it in for the recall…
If this occurs, the dash side harness connector may corrode and possibly cause
issues such as driver’s power window or power seat inoperative, AWD warning
light ON, battery discharge, and/or thermal damage to the connector.
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Who performed that test? To know the battery condition for certain, it must be done by a pro-shop , using battery-conductance or load-test equipment. If the battery is 4 years or older, and for some reason you don’t want to have the proper tests performed, replacing the battery with a new one might well do the trick.
George,
The battery has been checked extensively by a mechanic. The issue is an electrical problem that disconnects the battery from the dash,starter . Could be a failure or short ,but where to start looking. A quick jump will start the car and no problems until the key is near,ignition on, car not started and an accessory is used. like a window.
Thanks for the input
I’m not familiar with your car’s proximity fob key configuration. I’m presuming in normal operation the “key” must be detected to be in proximity to the car in order to start it. Is this correct? Explain what happens when it fails to start. Do you still hear the normal rrr rrr rrr sound in “start” mode indicating the starter is cranking the engine? But the engine never catches and runs? Do you hear nothing at all in start mode? Only a single click? Has your mechanic measured the voltage directly at the starter motor in start mode? Both terminals, probed between terminal and starter case.
If the car will start ok as long as you aren’t also moving a window up/down, is your current work-a-round to solve this problem to just not do that?
George ,the on /start sequence is: Key nearby, push button ,no brake, to roll window ,or some accessory. Kills all dash lights and no response to start.
: Key nearby,push brake ,push button ,start’s car.
A simple jump will start car with no other consequences.
I am hoping to find an indicator for an electrical panel short or malfunction as a place to start. The idea of an entire ICU is daunting.
Thanks
In my experience (diyer) my first guess would either be a faulty battery, or a bad connection where the wiring harness connects to the battery post. Suggest to address the other questions for best help here, especially what exactly happens when you press the button and it doesn’t start.
If the battery and battery connections are proven good, next in line is an iffy electrical connection somewhere between the battery and the starter motor/panel. It doesn’t take a huge amount of current to power the dash panel, but it does for the starter motor. If there’s a voltage drop caused by a high resistance between the battery and the starter motor, that could conceivably cause the dash panel to stop working.
I understand that your vehicle will not start after being put into accessory mode, but what happens if you put it into accessory mode roll the window down whatever and then before pushing the button to try to start the vehicle with your foot on the brake, you turn the vehicle back to the off mode and then put foot on the brake pedal and push the button to start??
Doesn’t work.
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What is the trim level??
The 2nd level ,with heated sets,2 WD.
Lol I meant S, SV, SL…
Have you checked to see if your vehicle is on the recall list Weekend-Warrior posted?
If so, that is the first step.
Is your car showing any stored codes?
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No and NO.
Since a jump seems to get it working again, at least temporarily, you could try replacing the battery w/a known good one as an experiment, if that’s a fairly easy experiment to try.
Another idea for an experiment, recharge the current battery overnight with a shop battery charger. Will it start ok the next morning, without a jump?
The mechanic’s have looked at the usual.
Every thing returns to normal for weeks after an episode. there is a sensor / switch that is not working correctly. IMO
Thanks
There’s likely a place in your Rogue’s electrical schematic that shows all of the required signals for starting are available for probing.
Signals for diagnosing mechanic to probe
- Key is proximate
- Brake pedal is depressed
- Transmission selector in allowable starting position
- Start button is pressed
When probing those signals with an o’scope or similar, and this shows they are all in their proper starting state, does it still refuse to start?
Your symptom isn’t a very common complaint here. Other than the ideas presented by the posters above, your best bet is perhaps a Rogue owner here has had this same problem and can offer up some ideas. You might try the forum search feature too, upper right this page.
Tester
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George, best idea yet ! Thanks
Larry
Just don’t use any accessory without starting the engine first.