Yes, the shop that made the mistakes made good on them, and I liked them a lot, but the mistakes were twice, and really dangerous so I had to move on.
The other was a con and extortion. The part was not replaced and never needed to be but I was charged. I assumed it was a mistake, they denied and I let it go. Two years later they extorted me to get my car back.
The quote was $500. Then they quoted me $1200, citing a second needed part. Before doing work. That second part was replaced only 3 months prior, so remembering the earlier experience I told them I would come get my car. They said they would not release it unless I had the work done. I was ready to call the police. But I needed my car. I said I would pay but required the old part back (as proof). They agreed. Picked my car up just hours later and they said the part was thrown out by accident.
I bought one, really liked it and found it affordable, and bought one of the same for both kids. Sadly, I didnāt know the local dealer was so terrible. I can have it towed an hour away, which I will if all else fails.
The instructions have a list of tools needed, and one of those is a āreplacement alarm module fuse.ā What else could that mean?
Thank you. Yes, Iāve been trying to get one for over a week after other efforts failed. Finally one says heās coming tomorrow. Fingers crossed. But also, even if it does, I need a plan B in case this ever happens again!
Iām a diyāer so seldom use shops, so have never run into this same problem, but my understanding about the relationship b/t a shop and their customer is ā¦
Shopās are entitled to use the customerās car as collateral to guarantee payment. But I donāt think the customer is required to have the recommended work done. The customer must pay the shopās fee for the work done to date, and may not be allowed to drive the car away (for safety concerns). But after paying the current fee total, they have the right to have their car towed elsewhere.
Did the shop refuse this in your case?
ps ā¦ thanks for clarifying the 2-year issue above.
The shop kept my car before doing any work. Of course, keeping it after would be different! It was absolutely unethical and not legal. I have used mechanics for 37 years and never experienced anything like this. It was shocking.
Less than clear instructions seem pretty common for car repair written instructions. Iād guess folks here have plenty of other examples. I think @It_s-Me has got it right above , it is common-sense suggestion to have a spare fuse on the ready when doing this procedure.
Thanks. Iām being very literal because I am not mechanically inclined, so any guesswork is dangerous.
So, the FOB/immobilizer expert came and said itās not either. He said the signal is being sent to the starter and then it wonāt start. Hereās the thing: My car refused to start twice when I left my door open briefly, and it turned out the battery was old and dying. As soon as my mechanic changes the battery, my starter literally decides that day to die? Also, he eventually got it started and then it refused to start again 24 hours later and ever since. But not a noise or hint of hesitation from the starter in that timeframe. This seems incongruent and very coincidental to me. Planning to have it towed tomorrow to a third mechanic, and not feeling hopeful, to be honest. I have more faith in the group think here.
Thank you. I really hope after so many hours of trying to figure this out one of them would have done as you suggest, but sometimes the simplest test or solution is not tried! I will definitely share. Thank you!
If there is a problem with a proximity key (FOB), the start button wonāt respond. If you can cycle through from āoffā to accessory or āonā using the start button, the key is working properly.
That is a simplified view of the operation. The start button sends a request to the certification module, then to the engine computer. The engine computer actuates the starter relay, the starter relay sends power to the starter solenoid. It is easy to verify if power is reaching the starter motor and solenoid.
Over time, a weak battery can damage the starter solenoid contacts. As the available voltage decreases, the amperage draw increases. It is not unusual for a starter to fail shortly after replacing a battery.
The connection would be with the old battery and starter. If you ignore the warning signs of a weak battery, continued use can damage the starter in short amount of time.
Thank you. I did not realize the battery was a problem the first time it died. I had left door open. Second time, I learned it was old and got the new one. Lesson learned.
