I came home the day before last, i was gonna leave mid morning the next day, put the keys n turn it, just heard clicking noise, lights dim more than usual. My husband jumped it and it started. I did a light load test on the battery with a multimeter, headlamps on, engine off was at 12.3 volts. How do we check alternator without taking it off the engine cuz its a bear taking it out n testing at a local parts store
Get the engine running and hook the meter up to the battery. With the engine running and all lights, fans, etc OFF it should say something in the ball park of high 13/low 14 volt.
Start simple get the battery checked for free at many auto parts stores. If you have a gauge for the battery look at that, you should get a warning light if it is not up to snuff.
I did what u told me. Its at 14.2 volts. Didnt mention earlier that the factory battery clamps stinks, got aftermarket and it tighten, before i can twist the clamps around with my hand, even though it was tighten. I think it was the loose clamps where it wasnt charging. Thank alot for the info
Warning lights never came on, i tried checking the menu in the cluster, didnt have any charging check system
Sounds like the battery terminal connection is the problem. Note Pos and neg have different size posts, make sure they are correct and have a good tight fitting.
Im hoping it was the battery terminals. I did do the battery base test, load test, checked out at 12.3, engine running with everything on cheched out at 14.3 volts. meaning it was the clamps
Im hoping its the clamps cuz i saw where the alternator is located, bitch taking it out. Again thanks
And there’s your problem
And there’s your fix, good job
Can you please define “factory battery clamps stinks” . . . ?
They’re severely corroded . . . ?
Even with the nut all the way tightened, you can still turn the clamps on the posts . . . ?
As for these aftermarket clamps, are they high quality or cheapo . . . ?
It sounds like your alternator is good, no need to mess w/that. Ask your shop to load or conductance test the battery, as you may need a new one. While they are doing that, ask them to clean and tighten the connections at the battery posts. I had a similar problem on my corolla one time, click, no crank, at a gas station in a big rain storm. Discovered I could rotate the connector on the battery post by hand. Tightening that was all that was need to fix the problem.
Sometimes those connectors and the posts corrode to the point that you can’t tighten it enough. Then you have to file the connector or install something on the post to make it bigger diameter. I’ve always been able to just file the connector.
Did they test the battery itself? If it’s the original, it may be at the end of its usable life.