You need to keep in mind that there are 2 drain plugs on the transmision. One is for the ATF anmd the other is for the hypiod oil in the final drive. The latter is the one that is frequently mistaken for the engine drain; at least if you’re unaware or not paying attention.
If the hypoid oil is drained the transmission will still shift and drive as normal. However, it won’t go forever in this condition. I’ve seen a few that made it a couple of hundred miles as there was enough residual oil in the final drive to keep the ring/pinion and side bearing lubricated. This should cause a noticeable while but some people either don’t hear it for whatever reason or they choose to ignore it. At least until the transmission dies.
Well Subaru drained the transmission fluid which yielded only 2 quarts, showing a shortage of 6 quarts. The tech replaced the fluid to proper levels, the transmission went through a “relearn “ process and is functioning the way it should.
The cost to me was Zero!
Have driven more then 100 miles without incident. Thank you Subaru. Thank you Car Talk Community.
A drain on this transmission, not dropping the pan but just removing the drain plug will drain about 6 qts total, so you were only about 4 qts down. I doubt that it did any damage to the transmission. I would still like to know what made you take it to the dealer in the first place?
If you had a check engine light along with the blinking brake light and blinking ABS light and you got a code for the transmission, you may still need a new valve body. There is a 100k mile warranty on this transmission because the transmission manufacturer got a bad batch of solenoids. The solenoid is permanently mated to the valve body so when the solenoid goes bad, the valve body has to be replaced. This usually happens around 60k miles.
BTW, there is also a 15 year, unlimited mileage warranty on the electric emergency brake because of issues they have had with it.
Great Intel I was not made aware of any of this. I will bring this up today when I visit the dealership. No, there was not any warning lights nothing to indicate a problem. I am not making the connection with the solenoid and throttle body and how they interact. I am guessing you are saying , or suggesting the solenoid is bad and that I should ask the dealership to look further into the issue. I had taken the car to the dealership because I lacked the confidence and workmanship performed at the shop I had originally brought it to. I have an extended warranty and the car did not have 60k as yet. I am considering other options, trading up for a newer model or a different vehicle all together, although I really like Subaru products. I post results of todays conversation with the dealership. Thank you for the intel it is very helpful.
No connection with the throttle body. I thought I corrected my post before anyone saw it, within 1 minute. The solenoid is mounted on the valve body that is inside the transmission. The valve body directs the ATF to where it needs to go. When the solenoid starts to act up, you will get a check engine light and when you get a check engine light in a Subaru, it also causes the ABS and brake lights to blink to make sure it gets your attention. You won’t notice any symptoms, at least not if you get the vehicle to the dealer ASAP.
Not all Subaru CVTs have the troublesome solenoid so if you never get the CEL, then you wont see this problem. Until you get the CEL, if you ever do, there is nothing to do nor anything the dealer can do.
Great idea, thanks for the suggestion