The time has come! I am going to my 4th (and final for at least 5 years) mustang. I have narrowed it down to 2 options - a 2013 mustang gt with 88k miles and a 2014 mustang gt with 42k miles. Both are being sold by private sellers. The condition of the body on both is about the same from pictures in the ads on the internet. Both engines are stock. There are a few main factors as listed below and I want your opinions on which I should get:
2013 $16k
-88k miles
-clean title
-3 owners
-oil changes always done on time, diff and trans have never been serviced (i was going to change both fluids as soon as i buy the car, if i buy it) could original fluids at 88k be detrimental to the tranny and differential?
2014 $16.8k
-42k miles
-2 owners
-Rebuilt title (this concerns me slightly, since the car was previously wrecked (from the 1st owner) pretty badly from the front end as seen from a picture the seller sent me. the front end was restored and brought back to factory like condition (from what i can see from the pictures i was sent), the seller told me it’s passed PA inspection and obviously it had to pass another safety inspection to get the R title from a previously had salvage title. I’m wondering how much does having a r title affect resale value for 5-10 years in the future? This is honestly my main concern, if it had a clean title i would 100% get this one but this worries me. And even though the seller said it passed multiple inspections I’d still be worried about frame damage since it’s not always visible (correct me if i’m wrong)
-42k miles is low enough that tranny/dif maintenance isn’t a factor yet
Everything has its price, and I would have no problem buying a vehicle with a restored/rebuilt title, but only for the right price. And ONLY if it has successfully run for several years after the repairs/restoration were completed.
However, the seller is asking way too much money for this restored/rebuilt-titled vehicle. I would be willing to pay 50% of what the car would be worth with a clear title, assuming it is in decent condition and drives straight. If the seller won’t accept that then I’d say “good luck” and keep looking.
Assuming you do buy a restored/rebuilt-titled vehicle, you can certainly insure it–including comprehensive and collision, but the insured value is far less than a clean-titled version would be worth. This is why you don’t want to overpay. Of course, you don’t want to overpay for any vehicle, salvaged or otherwise.
A salvage title does not bother me but with a few caveats. One is the asking price and the degree of damage that led to that salvage title. Sixteen for a salvage title Mustang would make me a bit antsy.
The unknown is that quite often the external body work may look fine but underneath the new makeup there may be hidden damage. Yes, a salvage title will affect resale value since it will make many people nervous about that unknown part.
I’ve worked for a few car dealers who took in trade what they thought were very clean used cars with no issues. Later on and to their great chagrin, it turned out that some of those clean cars were cobbled together, white knuckle, death traps.
The 2014 with a clean title is a $22k car all across the US so $16.8k IS discounted for the salvage title and that lower price will follow it forever.
The 2013 for $16k is a decent price.
That said, IMHO, the risk is not worth the 46k mile lower mileage. The Coyote V8 will live a long time if properly maintained so as long as the '13 passes a pre purchase inspection, that would be my choice.
Then it’s not discounted enough. My last, best, and final offer would be $11k, and if the seller won’t take it, that’s fine. It’s not like this is the only used Mustang on Earth. You are correct that the 2013 is probably a better bet, especially for just $5k more.
My vote is for the 2013 but only with a careful inspection. Just because it has a clean title does not mean that it has not been in a major accident or flood. There are ways around that with title washing.
An ex-boss of mine took in trade (both within a few months) 2 cars that looked showroom clean with clean titles. Both turned out to be cobbled together death traps and one only had 3k miles on it.
The IIHS estimates that about 1 in every 325 used cars has experienced title washing. That means there are likely over 1 million cars with washed titles on American roads.
There’s also this…and that’s only one state. Better safe than sorry.
Here are 2 video clips the 2013 gt seller sent me, first one is the engine sound when cold and the second clip is the engine sound when at operating temperature. Based on sound in the 2 clips is there anything that sounds off or abnormal? I hear a lot of noises in both but to be fair this is a noisy engine after all since it’s 32 valves and 4 cams. I’m just not an expert so I’m not sure which noises are normal and which noises are something to worry about (if any). All input is appreciated!
It is 2 hours away. I am not going to have a mechanic come with me if that’s what you’re asking however I am fairly confident in my ability to buy a car minus what is considered normal noises for an engine, specifically this one. I am bringing ramps and will check for any oil, trans, diff and coolant leaks, do a thorough road test before buying I was just trying to get some input on the engine. The car passed PA inspection in April 2022 which is pretty strict so I’m more concerned about the most expensive component which is the engine
“Me thinks you thinks too highly of youse-self…” Your original posting asking for opinions indicate that you are somewhat unsure of yourself. How much would a trained certified mechanic charge you for a 2-hour road trip and lunch (on you…)? That’s about one-day’s pay.
What about taking it to a service center (Ford dealership???), a reputable Speed Shop?
A hundred or even two-hundred bucks seem a small price to pay for some measure of security from someone who is not emotionally invested (as in you possibly falling in love with it at first sight) where you might miss a small, but significate indication of possible future problems…
I also would not recommend putting a trusted friend (even a highly qualified technician…) into the unenviable position of trying to dissuade you from buying a car you are raving about because they have a “bad feeling” about it. Nobody wants to be the bearer of bad news…
After looking at your other threads I really think your over estimating your mechanical ability .
You can do what you want and I don’t need to know your financial position . But it might be a good idea to check with Carfax if you have one close . At least you can see it in person and they do offer some kind of warranty.
I wonder what the sellers reaction will be to the putting the vehicle on ramps . I would not allow that , how would I know if the person could even drive well enough to use the ramps . I certainly would not let that happen on my property.
A few observations; The strut brace is not a Ford part, it is aftermarket. Look for other aftermarket items…such as…the exhaust. The car sounds like it’s at least had the mufflers changed if not a full cat-back.
The transmission is a very expensive part as well. If this car is a manual (and maybe that $16k price says it IS…) make sure the trans does not grind in any gear. The MT82 Getrag trans can be problematic and repair is expensive. Also be wary if the clutch engagement is high… last 1/2 inch of travel may mean the clutch is almost due for replacement and that will be a $2000 job.
If it is an automatic… the 6R80 trans is very tough. They do tend to clunk a bit in 1st at low speeds but as long as it shifts crisp and strong you are likely OK.
Ford rear axles seals tend to leak around 80-120K on these cars… pinion and axle seals, both.
The 2 piece driveshaft center bushing can also go bad. Best to just install a one-piece driveshaft if that happens. they are lighter and a bit cheaper than a new 2 piece Ford part… They don’t sell just the center bushing.
What is the best weight oil for street use for this car? I’ve read endless debates about this but the general consensus seems to be 5w-20 full synthetic. Is this what you’d use?
Yes, I use 5w20 which is the factory recommendation. I use Royal Purple HPS full synthetic. Because I track the car I also added an oil cooler. The Coyote has an 8 quart pan so it gets pricey!
I absolutely agree and I missed the point of the OP doing his own diagnostics on the vehicle (if it were mine…) verses having a professional shop perform any inspections. Too many YouTube videos of cars being driven off rams. If I was selling a vehicle, the potential buyer is not going to perform any diagnostics or bring a friend. If you want to call a friend, go on the TV Show, “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?”
I would agree to have a mechanic inspection only at an auto repair shops that offers pre-purchase inspection services.
So, to the OP, call, text, email, contact the seller to find out what they will allow for an inspection. Then contact a local shop to have the pre-purchase inspection performed and get a price quote and find out what the inspection covers…
Here is an example of what is normally inspected…
