2013 Equinox Spark Plug Replacement

Maintenance/Repairs
1

Hi,

Planning on changing the plugs on my 2013 Equinox with the 2.4l 4 cyl engine. I’ve never changed plugs on an aluminum head before. The car has 66k miles so I’m not anticipating any issues removing them. Any tips on breaking a plug loose if it has seized? I usually use anti-seize compound on the threads, is this okay with an aluminum head?

Thanks,

Ed B.

2

Check this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ukf_0MRoWkM

3

There shouldn’t be any issues at only 66K. They should break loose easily.

Anti-seize is OK, especially the silvery stuff. That is aluminum based and should be happy with the head.

4

Do it on a cold engine to make sure the plugs will break loose. Different alloys (heads, spark plug threads) expand at different rates when heated. Let it sit overnight where you are going to work then change the plugs.

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5

The only thing to keep in mind is " Don’t over tighten them" including the hold down bolts… It is not a Sherman Tank.
If you do not have a torque wrench that reads Inch pounds use the shortest ratchet handle you have so you do not strip the threads. Easy to do on an aluminum head.

Yosemite

6

Can’t speak to the idiosyncrasies of the Equinox, on my Corolla (with alum head) the toughest part at removing the plugs is figuring out a way to prevent the socket staying with the plug at the bottom of the hole. I duct tape the socket to the extension to prevent that. All I have to do is just pop the socket over the plug, and twist on the ratchet handle with only a moderate force and it turns the plug right out. Take the time to make sure the socket is fully seated on the plug before twisting on it, otherwise you can break the plug off inside the hole, which is a problem you don’t want to have. I use a tiny amount of moly-lube on the threads of the new plugs to prevent them getting stuck on the next change-out. Be sure to use a torque wrench when you tighten the plugs. They aren’t tightened very tight in aluminum heads. Definitely want to avoid over-tightening. Look up what the spark plug torque value is for your car in a shop manual, Chilton’s etc, or by asking at a dealership.

I’ve never had a problem getting spark plugs out. But I have best luck breaking a bolt or nut loose cold by using a 1/2 drive socket with a short breaker bar, and tapping on the handle as near to the socket as I can with a quick rap with a 4 lb hammer. That will often shock it loose.

7

If the plugs feel frozen in place do not try to just yank them loose. See-saw the plug back and forth by alternately trying to loosen and tighten them.

Your best method for tightening plugs is to…

  1. Gasketed plugs…run down until they hit and then tighten 1/8 turn.
  2. Tapered seat plugs…run down until they hit and then just snug them slightly.

Those methods are actually recommended by some plug manufacturers.

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8

Thanks for all the tips, I will take a shot at it this weekend between nor’easters.

Ed B.

9

Once I had the engine cover off, it took about 20 minutes to change the plugs. No problems removing and replacing them. The old plugs looked good at 66.5k miles, I snugged them down as per OK4550’s suggestion.

Again thanks for the tips, especially duct taping the spark plug socket to the extension.

Ed B.

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