2013 Buick Enclave brakes grabbing/seizing

buick
enclave

#1

Resubmitting, Failed to include email address on first one. 2013 Enclave under 35,000 brakes are grabbing or seizing and don’t release when pedal is released. Getting On Star warnings about traction control and antilock brake issues. Does anyone know what’s going on and what’s the cure? Pads and rotors are fine.


#2

Are you going to do the work yourself? If so, start by carefully checking the brake system. Drive it until the problem arises and see if one of wheels is hotter than another. The hot one is the problem. Inspect all 4 corners, just to be certain, but concentrate on the hot one. Is the caliper stuck on? Crack the bleed screw just a bit, does that free it up? If yes, the brake hose is likely failing. If no, the caliper piston is likely stuck and you need a rebuilt caliper. Check the slides and make sure they are freed up as well. Once the parts are replaced, the traction control and ABS lights should go off.

And if you’ve replaced ONE brake hose, I’d replace all 4 (or more) of them because this will happen at another corner soon if you don’t.


#3

ONstar detects a problem from computer codes? what are the codes?


#4

Infared remote temperature readers are now very inexpensive at Harbor Freight or Rural King. You could then determine which wheel is hot by merely pointing the reader.


#5

Hello Ben, Thanks for the information about my concern.

Unfortunately the problem doesn’t reoccur very frequently and it is difficult to catch the wheel temperature while driving. And, the ABS warning light on the dash does not come on. In other words, it doesn’t occur all the time. The code provided from On Star is C1100

To answer one of the questions asked is yes I am working on the problem myself with the help of a mechanic friend who works exclusively on imports. Yesterday after I posted my problem on Car Talk we were able to plug into the computer monitor to determine that the issue was likely electronic and not a mechanical issue like with pads, rotor or calipers. As best we could tell the issue is in the ABS Module.

My mechanic friend unplugged the ABS module and re-plugged it back in to see if this would reset the electronics within the module. From his experience working on BMWs, Audis and VWs he says this works most of the time to clean off the pin blades where they make better contract.

So that’s where we are with the issue at present. We have cleared all the codes and will continue to drive to determine if the problem reoccurs.

Please let me know if anyone has any other ideas or suggestion about how to proceed. I check on the replacement parts cost for the ABS module should we have to replace. The AC Delco replacement seem to be in the $250.00 range.

Again, thanks for everyone’s help.

Sam

PS How does one go about replying on CarComplaints.com I haven’t been able to get logged in. I didn’t have to log in to make my original post.


#6

Here’s a link to what C1100 means. It’s either an ABS pump switch or the wiring to the switch.


#7

Thank you for the additional information JT. I think what you indicated is what we learned yesterday when we plugged in the diagnostic computer.

My mechanic friend unplugged the AS module and then re-plugged back in instead of chasing the problem with parts replacement, to see if this activity would improve the connection. As mentioned , he says this works most of the time for him in other situations.

It has worked so far. Used car for several hours today without a repeat of the issue. Wish me luck and let me know if you have further advice.

Sam


#8

Six weeks ago I posted a ABS Module issue with my 2013 Enclave, see the above. Last week the problem reoccurred, but only at times. There are no more error codes on the OnStar. I am prepared to replace the ABS module but understand that vehicle will have to go back to dealership to have the new module reprogrammed at who knows what cost (???), especially since the issue doesn’t occur all the time. I’m tempted to continue to drive the vehicle until the problem becomes a regular everyday issue but wonder about the safety for doing this. Can anyone advise me about this problem ……is anyone else having this problem and what did they do? Help!!!


#9

When mentioned that you should check for a rotor that is hottest, they did not mean that you have someone else drive while you hang with one ankle from the mirror and feel the rotors as you are speeding down the highway. You’d get bugs in your teeth and your forehead would leave red marks on the pavement.
They meant that after a test drive to warm up the brakes, you exit the vehicle and feel the rotors to see if one is hotter that all the rest. Actually you do not actually touch the rotor…it will burn you it you touch the dragging brake…you just get close enough to FEEL the heat.

And @Ben_T_Spanner is right, the IR guns are great for this.

When I get a complaint about this, I just carry the IR gun with me, drive a block or two…riding the brakes a bit, stop and shoot each rotor. If there is a problem, one wheel will be 100+ deg hotter. A normal system, there is less than 50 deg difference between rotors.

Yosemite


#10

Hello jtsanders, thanks so much for the additional information about “driver stopping too fast”. Does the speed of the car make any difference when “driver stops too fast”?

The reason I ask is when the brakes lock up it usually occurs at very slow speeds, like under 10 mph or most frequently just before the car completely stops. Six weeks ago when this was occurring frequently we were just driving around in the parking lot at the Walmart when it repeatedly locked up. This was back before I got the C1100 code alert from OnStar.


#11

For those of you that assisted me with the brakes grabbing issue on the 2013 Enclave.

Good news is that we are talking the vehicle in to the local dealership next Tuesday at 9AM regarding the issue. Appears that the dealer has a recorder that can be installed on the vehicle that can be button activated whenever we experience another brake grabbing incident that should help to pinpoint what is causing this problem. Apparently there is a history on this type of electrical issue in the ABS system that can cause false alarms with this kind of result.

Also, we understand that this will likely be covered as a drive train warranty issue because of the low mileage (35,000) while the car is 2013 model.

Again, thanks to those that assisted me with this issue.