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2012 Buick Verano - oil temp doesn't get high enough

Have a 2012 buick verano and found there is no fix for the stalling out other than letting car warm up for minutes before driving since oil temp doesn’t get hot enough as it should.

Are you telling us? Or asking us?

This isn’t “normal” behavior for any car.

I guess both.

Where are you getting your information ? This should be a solvable problem.

interesting theory. motor stalls because oil is too cold? and hard to pump? the oil pump has a bypass spring that allows cold thick oil to be bypassed by pump during cold starts. all cars do.

Then how does the oil get circulated if it bypasses the pump?

Doesn’t really bypass the pump. The spring is a pressure relief that prevents cold oil from over-pressuring the oil filter can or coolers. It dumps the oil back to the pan and that pressure drop alone helps heat the oil at a cold start. The engine’s combustion provides the rest.

I can’t make any sense out of the OP’s problem.

I am fascinated by the claim that the engine stalls because the oil isn’t hot enough.
Who told him that the temperature of the oil was the cause of the stalling problem?
Is the OP using the correct viscosity oil?

Agreed, this makes no sense.

The only explanation I can see is if the car is used in a extremely cold environment. In the mornings, maybe the oil would be too cold to pump at first, but I’d guess that would resolve itself quickly after startup.

I believe the base engine is the 2.4 DI. There are issues with the timing chains and premature wear of piston rings. I would turn off “ECO” mode (if equipped) as it lowers idle speed. Also check oil level frequently and change the oil at a 5k interval.

This is my experience with the 2.4 DI in my 2013 Equinox.

Ed B.

I can think of no reason why cold oil would cause this. If you engine is DI (Direct Injection) It is prone to carbon build up on the backs of the intake valves causing things like hard starting rough running etc. DI engines are also hard on the injectors because the injector is inside the combustion chamber not in the intake manifold. That is a pretty harsh environment for a fuel injector and they tend to get clogged up and have poor spray patterns that could cause this as well…

The mechanic that worked on it.

You need a new :mechanic" If your engine was not getting hot enough it would set a trouble code.

1 Like

So there is no trouble code? The engine should run fine when cold and I doubt this has anything to do with oil temp. Yeah, you don’t hotrod when first starting on a cold day but a modern fuel injected vehicle should be fine.

I suspect some type of sensor is likely faulty. Another thing to check are all the electrical connections such as the ground points. I had a situation like this a few years back and it NEVER set a code. I fought with it for months and finally someone told me to remove my sensor grounds and clean all the contacts even if they don’t look dirty. I did this and the problem was solved.

The issue was worse on cold damp days. It usually happened only when the car sat for several hours but would restart like a champ if stopped to go into the store, etc.

Does the engine eventually reach peak operating temperature ? (When the needle is neatly in the middle)
If it doesn’t even after driving a long periode of time it might be the thermostat but I’m not sure

they replaced my cylinodes but that did not fix it. Car will stahl out if you start and switch out of park to drive right away or not let it warm up long enough.


Did the mechanic replace a solenoid?
Or did he claim to have replaced the cylinders?
The latter is essentially impossible on an engine of this design, but I think we need to have some idea regarding what the mechanic claims to have done, in order to evaluate just how far off-base he is.

Take this car to a competent shop and not just the lowest bidder. I suspect it is something simple like a sensor or the thermostat. I own a service business myself (IT/computer services) and frequently come across problems that incompetent people have not properly diagnosed or made worse by taking it to the lowest bidder.

This could be an IAC solenoid or similar. I don’t know. It could be a temp sensor and the ECU never gets the correct input. My gut tells me this is something simple that has just been misdiagnosed. Take it to a competent mechanic!


If the symptom is stalling when taking off from a stop when the engine is cold, that’s probably and air/fuel mixture problem rather than an oil temperature problem. The engine computer is supposed to greatly enrich the mixture (much more gas injected) when the coolant temperature is below normal operating temperature. Problem could be caused by faulty coolant temp sensor, but my guess, more likely there’s an air leak into the engine caused by a problematic vacuum hose or vacuum operated device. That weakens the fuel mixture, which is the opposite of what you need for a cold engine, and hence the stalling. Beyond a visual inspection, measuring fuel trims might provide a clue. The other common cause for this is a problem with the increase in idle speed function, which also is supposed to happen when the engine is cold.