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2009 BMW 328 - repair question


Folks here with similar problems (usually on pick-up trucks, rather than sedans) have sometimes found the problem isn’t the driveshaft or the u-joints, but that the center carrier bearing isn’t properly aligned/adjusted. You might google that term using the forum search feature, the icon that looks like a magnifying glass above right. Another idea, if you are able to feel the vibration just rev’ing the engine in neutral, ask your shop to see what happens when you disconnect the driveshaft as an experiment. If you can still feel the vibration, not driveshaft related. Bent rear axle shafts or rear differential problem are another possibility. I guess one way to test that theory is to disconnect the driveshaft, then have the car towed behind another vehicle to see if the vibration is still there. Only try that if it can be done safely of course.

In the cockpit by the glovebox and passenger door. Between 1500- 2000 rpms, then smooths out.

1500 -2000 rpms . Around 20 -30 mph.

Thanks, im headed to BMW to complain about a mis- diagnosis.

I can hear them now . " We stand by our diagnosis but you had someone else do the work "

Will let you know.

You can only feel this vibration near the glove box and right door? I suspect you are talking about a noise, not a vehicle vibration.

Have you driven this vehicle with a technician so they can feel the vibration or listen to the noise?

Just got back from Tom Bush BMW ,Jacksonville, FL. After 2 hours they said they mis-diagnost the car. Now I need a torgue converter/ trans. They would not even comp me a transmission flush after I spent 1000.00 (at another shop) because of there original prognosis !!!

This is an ugly situation . . .

The BMW dealer’s diagnosis of the driveshaft was clearly incorrect

Yet you had the driveshaft replaced elsewhere

Thus, you probably have little to no leverage with the BMW dealer, concerning their (mis)diagnosis

Considering the car is driveable, I’d be hesitant about spending any money on the torque converter/trans at this point

To be honest, I’d think about the car as short-term from now on. Maybe 2 - 3 more years, at best.

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If it is in your budget to trade that is what I would do. Life is too short to let a vehicle drive you nuts.

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I’m curious, how much did you pay for the original diagnosis That turned out to be incorrect?

Maybe I am wrong, but I would assume you get a check engine light if there is something wrong with the torque converter?

I would recommend to find another shop. Don’t tell them what to do, but get a reliable diagnosis and go from there.

I’ve worked on a few vehicles with a torque converter problem . . . no check engine light, no codes, no pending codes

Are they saying you need both the torque converter and the automatic transmission replaced? Or just the torque converter?

similar story on BMW service

I have 2 coworkers: one is “rogue DIY” who would be able to disassemble/reassemble any car to the last bolt, another one who does not know how to grab a wrench. they are friends, BTW. So, the second one bought a used BMW and eventually after a year or so it needed repair, which was quoted by the dealer as some mid-4-digit quote replacing half of suspension. the first one replaced him only a couple of parts, at under $100 cost and car ran great for another 2 years before he traded. the point of the story: dealer is inclined to make a sloppy diagnostics, but make sure they do a lot of work as it results in higher profit

ah hindsight. dealer would have changed bearing alone for 500. you said so in first post. but they preferred changing the entire driveshaft. than you find you still have vibration and they say “see. told you so”? but your wallet would only have been out 500. at least dealer could than try to decide what the real issue is now

Good point , thanks.

I m just going to baby it and take it easy. Cant afford to spend any more on it and the mental anguish.

Why would you believe the dealer now if they misdiagnosed the problem the first time? They could be right, but I wouldn’t go there again for service. If you want a diagnosis, take it to the indie shop that did the drive line work for you and get their opinion. Since you didn’t ask for a diagnosis before, don’t give them a hard time. Just say you got another diagnosis from the dealer and you don’t trust them anymore, and want to develop a relationship with a different service shop. Ask them how urgent the work is and go from there. If they think you could be a long term customer, they might not try to sell you work you don’t really need immediately.

They shouldn’t do that, regardless whether or not I am a long-term customer.