2007 Nissan Sentra - Front Suspension Question

Maintenance/Repairs
1

I’ve got an (admittedly) neglected 07 Sentra I’m trying to keep on the road. Right at 145000 miles.This vehicle has had zero maintenance in the past 4 years other than oil changes. Yes, I’m an idiot. No, I don’t know much about cars. Yes, I want to learn.

I would have uploaded all of these pictures to the post itself, but it wouldn’t allow me to do so because I’m a new user. An Imgur link will have to suffice. Imgur: The magic of the Internet

So, the suspension creaks from both sides of the front end whenever you push on the front corners, or go over large bumps/turn the steering wheel sharply. The creaking is a relatively recent (last couple of months) development. The dust boots/covers are missing on one front shock, and badly disintegrated on the other. Do these behave kind of like ball joint boots, where they should be loaded with grease to prevent rubbing and creaking? Or are they just a dust cover? This is not the only issue under here, but am I correctly in assuming this could be a cause of the creaking?

There’s also a thumping noise coming from the front of the car. Usually only hear it when going under 30 mph or so, and over uneven surfaces. Seems to be coming from the drivers side, I believe. After googling, I decided to check the end links, and the Top boots on one of them is ripped and doesn’t seem to have much grease left. Pic 3. After removing them and going for a short test drive, the thunk persists. I then checked the bushings, and they’re tucked in behind a metal plate underneath the car, not accessible like I’ve seen on other cars online. I did tug on the sway bar, and didn’t see any play that wasn’t the bar itself bending a little while I tugged. I noticed a ball joint on one side has a cracked boot as well, and it’s leaked. I tried to test it for play with a 2x4 and didn’t see any, but I assume it’s about ready for replacement.

On the drivers side, the inner CV joint boot is leaking grease. I’ve read that the boot itself can be replaced if the joint isn’t ruined, but how do I check to see if it needs the boot only or the entire CV axle? There’s a leak, but the boot isn’t split wide open. No clicking or anything while turning.

The car also pulls to the right - the steering wheel has to be turned 5 or 10 degrees to the left to keep the car straight. It’s time for new tires, so that could be it. But just mentioning in case it narrows something down.

There’s also this rubber piece that looks super worn, but I’m not sure what it is.

I just need some guidance and someone to confirm my thinking, or put me on the right path. So far it seems like I need end links, ball joints, and either CV axles or just to replace that boot. I’ve already done a tune up, relatively familiar with engine maintenance. Just new to suspension work.

Thanks for any pointers!

2

You likely need new lower control arms, complete strut and spring assemblies, stab bar bushings and end links and cv axles.

Maybe inner and outer tie rod ends as well.

5 Likes
3

That’s what happens to rubber components on an 18 year old vehicle.

You need to get the vehicle on a lift to do a proper inspection.

And by the way, bad inner CV-joints don’t click while cornering. A bad outer CV-joint will.

Tester

2 Likes
4

Are you planning on doing some or all of this work yourself?

If so, we may be able to advise you what kind of tools and equipment to get

If you’re willing to put in some or all of the work, you’ll be better able to afford to keep the car on the road for several more years, imo

1 Like
5

Planning on doing everything myself if possible. Have a jack, jack stands, an electric impact, socket set, and am willing to grab some more specialized tools if needed.

Pretty much trying to keep it in “good” if not “Like new” condition, as a daily beater for driving around town and the occasional road trip.

6

You’ll want to consider getting a set like this, imo

image
image232×154 36.8 KB

Also, a metric combo wrench set, pry bar set and whatever size axle nut socket you need for your cv halfshafts . . . 36mm is common, but you better make sure what you’ve got first

1/2" drive breaker bar and socket set . . . there will be situations where YOU are stronger than the impact wrench

7

Along with a big ol’ piece of pipe to put on that breaker bar.

Here are a couple of ways to proceed, depending…

  1. if you have the cash and the time, just do it all - control arms, struts, etc - as in @Mustangman suggestions

  2. If you just want to know what is critical, and prefer to do it a bit at a time, take it to an alignment shop that offers “lifetime.” Have them put it on their rack to align it. It’s one of the best ways to identify what is out of whack. This way, you know what to do first. And then as you do the other stuff, your “lifetime” alignment deal means that you don’t have to keep paying to have it checked every time you change out something else.

1 Like
8

No grease needed. Have a good independent shop give your front suspension an inspection.

1 Like
9

Agreed with taking this to a shop.

Whenever you have to have specialized tools, knowledge, space to work in, and/or SAFETY is involved… I also tend to take my car to a mechanic.

It may be more expensive up front, but it’s done right, and you don’t have a garage full of tools you’ll never use again, or a bunch of car parts spread all over your garage that your wife is getting mad about.

2 Likes
10

Have you actually located the tear or rip in the inner CV boot? The grease could be coming from somewhere else. If you have a manual transmission, it could even be gear oil from the differential so I would check that oil level first.

It looks like you might have an oil leak from the strut itself, It is hard to say from the pictures. If the car handles good, then maybe not.

Lower control arms look bad though, I think they would be the top priority. Tie rod end is probably ok, just hold the knuckle end of the ball joint in one hand and push/pull on the tie rod to see if there is any movement. Or look at the tie rod with the car on the ground and someone turning the steering wheel back and forth.